Vacheron Constantin breaks the world record for most complicated wristwatch
359 comments
·April 11, 2025staplung
nayuki
> mechanical watches are among the very finest fossils of the pre-digital age
Clocks have discrete ticks. They are digital devices. Even a base-60 second hand is digital because the number of states is finite.
Mechanical and digital are not mutually exclusive concepts. For example, "The analytical engine was a proposed digital mechanical general-purpose computer designed by English mathematician and computer pioneer Charles Babbage." -- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Analytical_engine
Going further, I could argue that the digital age is very old. Humans who wrote numbers for accounting purposes were engaging in a digital activity; only the numbers matter, not the medium they were written on or the exact handwriting style of the scribe who wrote those numbers. DNA is a form of digital data conveyed through a sequence of 4 possible symbols, and DNA predates humans by billions of years.
The pedantic phrase substitution for "pre-digital age" would be something like "age before widespread digital electronic computers on solid-state microchips" (thus differentiating from analog electronic computers and vacuum tubes).
tokai
Digital has three meanings; having to do with fingers and toes. Having to do with something discrete. And having to do with computers, with electronic as synonym.
You are arguing from the second definition while the quote is of the third definition.
gweinberg
You're missing the meaning where the display uses the symbols we call digits (rather than hands). I don;t think most people would call an electronic watch "digital" if the display was hands, even if the "hands" are actually an lcd display.
nayuki
> And having to do with computers, with electronic as synonym.
Computers do not have to be electronic. Counterexamples: Mechanical calculators, LEGO logic gates, hydraulic logic valves, electrical (not electronic) relays. Heck, even human meatbags were called "computers" back in the day.
gweinberg
It would be absurd to say an analog electronic computer was digital.
fennecbutt
>Clocks have discrete ticks.
Not always, look at Seiko's spring drive
snovv_crash
I have a feeling we'll feel the same looking back on combustion engine cars.
bigstrat2003
We already do. Lots of people love older cars (say, from the 80s or earlier) because they are a mechanical system without a computer controlling everything. They are something you can understand and work on yourself without having to own a lot of specialized equipment.
philshem
Another nice longform essay, from the NYer (2017)
https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2017/03/20/confessions-of...
CSSer
It reminds me of the Theo Jansen’s Strandbeests
Mainan_Tagonist
I happen to work in this industry, and just a word for those that compare this with an Apple Watch or a Casio, this Vacheron-Constantin will likely be around 200 years from now, it will still be a testimony of the refinement and engineering of a fine craft that few can achieve, a highly valued item with specialist technicians marvelling on the talent of its builders, just as is the case today with 200 year old timepieces.
you'll be very lucky if your Casio can last as long. Your mass commoditised Apple watch will likely be worthless.
Personaly, I like the IWC on my wrist as much as I like my Casio G-Shock, both are wonderful in their own way.
The Apple watch on my wife's wrist is a fine computer i guess, but at some point, it will have the same "quaint charm" as the IBM Thinkpad she owned 23 years ago.
jasode
>I happen to work in this industry, and just a word for those that compare this with an Apple Watch or a Casio, this Vacheron-Constantin will likely be around 200 years from now, it will still be a testimony of the refinement and engineering of a fine craft that few can achieve, a highly valued item [...] The Apple watch on my wife's wrist is a fine computer i guess,
My friend does not work in the watch industry so maybe that's why she came to the opposite conclusion from yours. She has several high-end watches Omega, Ebel, Cartier ... and when she got the Apple Watch almost 10 years ago, it instantly demoted all her expensive jewelry watches to the drawer.
The cheaper "disposable" Apple Watch instantly cured her from wanting any new expensive jewelry watches. She let the batteries die off in the old watches and has never replaced them. Instead, she just loves having the weather, timers, task notifications, etc on her Apple Watch. Sure, the classic watches have "diamond encrusted bezel, gold wristband, Swiss mechanical movement yada yada yada..." but all that is negated by the useful features of the smart watch.
It's a rare situation where a cheap product completely replaces an expensive product.
I had a a similar evolution in thinking when technology made me re-evaluate products I once coveted. When I was young before the internet existed, I drooled over this Geochron illuminated framed wall map $4000 : https://www.geochron.com/clocks/boardroom/
A lot of expensive offices had that and I thought I had to have it too. But then I bought cheap atomic clocks you never had to set and the web had dynamic maps I could explore. Even the new Geochron units don't automatically set to the radio signal from atomic clocks. New technology completely cured me of wanting to buy a Geochron. People used to want tall grandfather clocks in the house foyer as an elegant piece of accent furniture. Now you can't even give away those clocks for free on craigslist. Everybody has clocks on their smartphones so buying a grandfather clock for the house isn't a priority anymore. Even if we romanticize grandfather clocks with descriptions about "heirloom furniture craftsmanship, intricate wood carvings, etc", it still won't entice most people today to want one.
mplanchard
How sad. That wall map is a nice object and a good conversation piece to boot.
I guess you haven’t actually tried to buy a grandfather clock. Quality ones are in the thousands at least, if not tens of thousands. Even cheap ones are hundreds of dollars.
To my mind an apple watch is a fundamentally different product from a watch. They just both happen to be worn on the wrist.
jasode
>How sad. That wall map is a nice object and a good conversation piece to boot.
It shouldn't be sad to avoid adding another artifact of consumerism to one's life. I'm at a stage in my life where I've gotten rid of most of my "conversation pieces". E.g. I once had an expensive antique warship in my office as decoration. (https://www.google.com/search?q=hms+bounty+model&tbm=isch). I thought it looked really nice. But one day as I was cleaning the dust off of every crevice with an art brush to keep it from looking like a junked up antique, I realized it was an example of a possession making me its slave. I got rid of it and don't regret it. I dodged a bullet by not getting the Geochron and saving $4000 but my journey of enlightenment wasn't complete so I still got suckered into the wooden warship.
>I guess you haven’t actually tried to buy a grandfather clock. Quality ones are in the thousands at least, if not tens of thousands.
Yes, I agree that grandfather clocks are expensive and that's why I used it as a parallel example to the expensive wristwatches.
RHSeeger
I think of my watch the same way a lot of people think of jewelry, or suits, or things like that. While it does serve a purpose (telling time), the primary reason I wear it is because I like it. It's functional, but mostly decorative.
I inherited my watch from my father, and I almost certainly wouldn't spend thousands to buy one myself; but I wear it every time I go out to dinner for anything fancier than that.
umanwizard
A watch with batteries that can die is by definition not a mechanical watch like this one.
jaybna
Damn you HN, I went down the rabbit hole on Geochron. No, I don't need this. Yes, I want it, but not the old version - this one: https://www.geochron.com/product/geochron-digital-atlas-2/
Certainly someone has hacked/recreated this with a Raspberry Pi. I must now go waste a weekend...
RHSeeger
I'm having trouble wrapping my head around the price on this. $500 up front, _plus_ a subscription, and it doesn't even include the display. What are you getting for that cost? It _feels_ like something you could install as software on an RPi or any other computer.
jaybna
Found a $1.99 app for Apple TV that's pretty good. Now "screen saver" for downstairs television. Will play around with a spare Pi when time permits. There appear to be several options out there. A fun waste of an hour.
42772827
I want one, but not with that terrible projection! I’d prefer one inverted at least.
Mainan_Tagonist
The fact that she had batteries in those Cartier and Omega says a lot, and explains why the Apple watch had such an appeal.
konart
I have somewhat different store.
Moved to Garmin (for sports and outdoor activities) and Mido as an everyday watch from Apple Watch (had 3 and 7 versions). Can't really imagine going back.
I guess I was sold the idea that I neeed notifications, weather and all this bullshit on my wrist all the time.
At some point I realized I've disabled notifications completely and basically the only thing I was using my Apple watch was paranoidal heart rate monitoring.
>Swiss mechanical movement yada yada yada...
Most swiss mechanical movements cost 50-100$ though.
jasode
>I guess I was sold the idea that I neeed notifications, weather and all this bullshit on my wrist all the time.
I understand your viewpoint but people are different. My friend is almost 80 years old and wasn't drawn to smart watches because of FOMO fear-of-missing-out on some Instagram notification or hustle culture to constantly check emails. Instead, she's always worried about "forgetting something" and the Apple Watch has reminders for medicine, upcoming appointments, etc. It was a total quality-of-life improvement. It caused a total rethink about the old mechanical watches that didn't assist her in that way.
If a mechanical watch that will be "admired 200 years from now instead of being in a landfill" -- doesn't help her take pills -- then she's not going to be attached to the romanticism of it like a watch collector enthusiast.
>Most swiss mechanical movements cost 50-100$ though.
Your clarification means you misinterpreted my comment. I was not insulting mechanical watches such as your Mido or gp's expensive IWC. My point was that it's rare and counterintuitive when a cheap disposable product causes a total rethink of previously valuable items regardless of the older item's "timeless qualities" (e.g. "200 year heirloom").
null
cjpearson
I wouldn't say that's the opposite conclusion. Plenty of people have switched from mechanical or quartz watches to Apple watches for their daily wear. But a decade from now the watches in the jewelry drawer will have retained their value more than the watch that's on her wrist today.
Of course there's nothing wrong with wearing a smart watch. For practical purposes they are better in every way. They just have a different lifetime. It's a similar situation with cars. Some like the constant maintenance that a 60 year old car requires, others want a Toyota that will reliably get them to work, and others want a sports car with engine that can go three times as fast as they'll ever drive.
Also, I think the cheap product winning is pretty typical. CDs replaced vinyl records and were then replaced by music streaming. Few people buy cameras now that smartphones exist. And these mechanical watches were already replaced for the most part decades ago by quartz watches.
Despite the existence of more practical alternatives, there are people who still like to buy grandfather clocks, vinyl records and mechanical watches. They are certainly in the minority and you won't find a grandfather clock or record player in every home, but there is a market there.
(I kind of hate to be that guy, but if there were batteries inside, those weren't Swiss mechanical movements)
WillPostForFood
For practical purposes they are better in every way
Mostly agree, except you have to take the Apple Watch every single day for maintenance (charging). You can buy a Casio F-91W for $20 and go 7-10 years before you have to take off your wrist for a battery change. If you simply want to tell time, digital watches, quartz watches, and arguably mechanical watches beat smart watches.
jasode
>, but if there were batteries inside, those weren't Swiss mechanical movements
Yes. The Cartier Tank watch is mechanical. I just lumped in the other nice jewelry watches with batteries to talk about them as a group because they've all been eliminated from her mindset.
>Also, I think the cheap product winning is pretty typical.
When I wrote "replace", I didn't mean in terms of sales. It was more about the cheaper product replacing the previous thinking in the mind about the old product.
For example, she used to color-coordinate the different jewelry watches with different outfits... If it's a blue outfit, wear the stainless steel watch ... if it's this other dress, wear the gold watch with black face. If the shirt has starfish, wear the seashell theme watch. That whole ritual is eliminated. (I guess one could also change watch bands on Apple Watches for different occasions but she doesn't bother with it. Maybe because arthritis makes it hard to squeeze the band's release mechanism.)
The new Apple Watch alters the psychological relationship with the previous jewelry watches so thoroughly that it makes her impervious to gp's praise such as, "Vacheron-Constantin [...], it will still be a testimony of the refinement and engineering of a fine craft that few can achieve, [...] you'll be very lucky if your Casio can last as long. Your mass commoditised Apple watch will likely be worthless."
Her comeback to the gp's "timeless" qualities is that she likes lifting the Apple Watch to her face and asking, "Hey Siri, how many inches is 5 centimeters? (when sewing clothes) ... Or how many cups in a liter? (when cooking from a recipe with metric quantities)." She thinks it's a miracle that a little watch can understand her voice and give her answers. Yes, everybody at HN is jaded and we all know Apple's Siri is the worst voice assistant technology out there but yet she loves it. If that means it's wearing a mass-produced watch that nobody cares about in 200 years after she's buried in the ground, that doesn't matter at all. Her "dressy watches" phase is over.
That's the type of rare product replacement situation I'm talking about. Usually, the opposite happens: we all get on some hedonistic treadmill with various consumer products and the next better thing we desire is more expensive. In the 1980s, CDs were actually 2x more expensive than vinyl records and cassette tapes. Vinyl was about $6.99. CDs were $15.99+. It took over 10 years for CDs to gradually lower in price such that Walmart was selling them for less than $10. The new CD players themselves were about $1000 in 1980s. Record players were $100.
TimByte
My $40 Casio surviving everything from camping trips to getting dunked in a sink still feels like its own kind of masterpiece
Mainan_Tagonist
And in a way, it is...
bookofjoe
Iconic F-91W currently costs $16.88 at Amazon AND it now comes in colors: Clear, Pink, Blue, Gray, Green, Gold, White (and Black)
dole
A158 (Obama) for the upgrade to steel, A168 for EL backlight.
jxjnskkzxxhx
I went thru a couple of F91W and the bracelet kept breaking. I since got a A158WA-1. Check it out.
tokai
All the F-91Ws I have gotten through Amazon have been fakes.
PeterStuer
Used to have one of those. Survived daily swim practice and saunas for years.
crazygringo
Sure, but I wear watches to tell the time or (mainly) as a fashion accessory. Not as an object to donate to a museum someday...
And 200 years from now, I'm sure there will be a few Apple Watches in museums as well. And some Casios too.
Mainan_Tagonist
I wonder how many of these Casios and Apple watches will be in working order, and as functional as day one.
crazygringo
Museums don't operate objects that are 200 years old, so it doesn't really matter.
But also, it's not like a mechanical watch is going to work for 200 years without maintenance and repair either. Lubrication, springs, bearings... these all degrade over time.
coldtea
>you'll be very lucky if your Casio can last as long
The Casio would last even longer - and would be closer to the right time even without touching it in between.
elorant
Good luck finding a compatible battery for it after 200 years.
coldtea
Adapting to whatever battery exists 200 years from now to the form of a CR2032 battery would be simple. A Casio just takes a round battery shell that contacts with the positive and negative terminals on each side.
Hell, I can make one from scratch in my workshop trivially, from basic materials.
Finding high-end mechanical watch technicians? Not so easy. And hardly so cheap.
WXLCKNO
I'll just ask the ruling AI to summon one into existence from the required atoms?
lm28469
Mostly because it'll be worn by a rich dude who uses it one day per week and sends it for CLAa every 5 years, treating it like some sort of religious idol every step of the way. The most extreme thing it'll go through is the swing of a golf club
bipson
No, because the achievement, the mastery behind it is not obliterated in the next few years, by the upcoming iterations of newer smartwatches.
Smartwatches, Phones, (most) Cars, TVs, ... all of these are mass produced, and as such completely obsolete in a few years, even if they are sold as "premium" products for a month's salary.
Unique, manufactured Design pieces are... timeless. It's a piece of art. And I say this without any inclination to ever join that market.
lm28469
> No, because the achievement, the mastery behind it is not obliterated in the next few years, by the upcoming iterations of newer smartwatches.
Just like a Casio F-91W, or the $50 mechanical Swatch.
> It's a piece of art
Yes, that's the only argument really, it's a good looking wearable piece of art. It won't last longer than a waterproof gshock, it isn't more precise than a $5 quartz watch, &c.
microtherion
> No, because the achievement, the mastery behind it is not obliterated in the next few years, by the upcoming iterations of newer smartwatches.
That's just another way of saying that there is no real innovation in end user benefits in mechanical watches. The marketing is all about how difficult they were to make.
Look at the functionality that the watch described in the article has to offer:
* It can show the time — to an accuracy of 8.5 seconds a day, apparently: https://www.reddit.com/r/VacheronConstantin/comments/1aiyjeb... Technological marvel, innit?
* It can show the date (with squiggly hands, for some unfathomable reason). It probably can even account for different lengths of months, and leap years (I was flabbergasted when I learned that there are watches being sold today for hundreds or thousands who require a manual adjustment at the end of every month that doesn't have 31 days).
* It can show the phase of the moon. Awesome if you're a werewolf running a hedge fund, I guess. It has a ton of other astrological indicators (Zodiac signs, etc.)
* It can chime every hour (presumably to remind the people around you that you exist and wear an overpriced watch).
* It works as a chronograph.
That's it, as far as I can tell. Nothing a $10 watch on Aliexpress could not do. It does not even seem to have an alarm, apparently. You get three actually useful functions (time — inaccurately, date, chrono) in a package that is 15mm thick.
No payment functionality, step counter, agenda, calculator.
But yes, you have a $100K or whatever watch that you can leave to your great-grandchildren so they can be assured that prior generations overpaid for gimmicky crap as well.
euroderf
Wristwatches are fetishized but not buggy whips.
To each his own I guess.
userbinator
The Apple Watch has billions of transistors in its microcircuits, mass-produced repeatably at very low cost. It's a different type of engineering but I think it's nonetheless impressive too (and I'm not actually a fan of Apple either.)
LeafItAlone
>this Vacheron-Constantin will likely be around 200 years from now
I’m interested to hear more. Typically things that are “most complicated” and lost lasting don’t go hand-in-hand.
Mainan_Tagonist
You should visit this museum : https://www.patek.com/en/company/patek-philippe-museum/the-m...
Since mechanical watches are, by design, open source, there will always be a technician interested in keeping them going.
theamk
The mechanical watches are not open source at all - most (all?) of them do not come with engineering drawings nor with list of materials.
Even if you have a watch in front of you, it does not mean you can create a copy of it without a lot of work - you need to measure every gear, guess the materials used (how stiff should this spring be?), and re-draw mainplate and dial.
Compare to things like old electronics, which came with full schematics, service manual and sometimes even debugging guide.
benhurmarcel
The people who buy this kind of watches don’t usually wear them much, they store them in a safe environment.
Gud
I've had my Casio g-shock for 20 years, including bringing it to two war zones. I have a physical job and I abuse the shit out of it.
I'll take my chances with my Casio.
throw0101d
> I've had my Casio g-shock for 20 years, including bringing it to two war zones.
Watch aficionados appreciate G-Shocks just as much as an A. Lange & Söhne. If you visit their Youtube channels and web sites you'll often see things like Seiko SKXes were recommended for years (pre-discontinuation) as good value and great for day-to-day wear (beach going, gardening, etc).
LandR
Yep. I have 40 watches, from tudors, omegas, iwc, zenith, dunhill, nomos, oris, grand seiko, panerai.
I still love the shit out of my g shock. The only reason it doesn't get worn much is it was replaced by my garmin.
light_triad
If you're interested in the functioning of mechanical watches, they're amazing:
https://ciechanow.ski/mechanical-watch/
Previously on HN in 2022: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=31261533
ecoffey
Bartosz links to it in the Further Reading section, but wanted to highlight the Wristwatch Revival YouTube channel[0] as well. Really great content and very understandable after reading the article!
dang
Thanks! Macroexpanded:
Mechanical Watch (2022) - https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=38591084 - Dec 2023 (163 comments)
Mechanical Watch - https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=31749299 - June 2022 (1 comment)
Mechanical Watch - https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=31261533 - May 2022 (413 comments)
perihelions
There's also a neat one about the process of making mechanical watches,
https://watchesbysjx.com/2017/05/portrait-masahiro-kikuno-ja... ("Masahiro Kikuno, Japanese Independent Watchmaker")
https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=14610110 (108 comments)
https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=19011880 (98 comments)
LeafItAlone
That is one of the coolest demonstration sites I have ever seen. What a neat way to learn about watches. Kudos to whomever created that page
offsky
I became interested in complicated watches several years ago and knew I could never afford one, so I made a website with simulated watch dials. Just for fun and education. It was also a great way for me to learn svg animations. https://www.complication.watch/
eddyg
Nice!
I loved the Emerald Chronometer⁽¹⁾app for iOS / iPadOS and all its various “calibres” that you could flip over and show in day or night mode. Sadly the dev has removed the apps from the App Store, but it still runs (for now.) It’s a fun use for an older iPad on a stand.
Wanted to mention it in case it gives you some inspiration. :)
mwexler
Emerald Time (https://emeraldsequoia.com/et/index.html) was my favorite clock-setting app. Always fun to see the variation among sources. I was sad to see the company shut down.
ttepasse
Back on New Years Eve 2016 I wanted to see once in my life one of these leap second which got inserted every few years. Emerald Time was the only clock app I found which displayed the deciseconds: https://imgur.com/a/r1d6OkW
(00:59, because of UTC+1)
ngcc_hk
If maintenance is an issue and do not want subscription, why not try open source and patron …
netsharc
The next step up from this would be to simulate all the internal mechanisms as 3D models that interact with each other...
rpozarickij
For those interested, the following article is a really cool explanation/visualization of the mechanical watch: https://ciechanow.ski/mechanical-watch/
(The website contains so much more than this)
primax
There is a giant world of high end replica watches that are so close to the original that they take expert mechanics to tell apart. I've got a few $500 watches that are identical to $10-40k watches.
Worth checking out reptime to scratch that itch without selling a kidney.
pixelpoet
If only my software were valued by number of complications...
Everything about the high end "movement" scene rubs me the wrong way (I had a friend into it), but most of all, the pompous terminology.
JumpCrisscross
> Everything about the high end "movement" scene rubs me the wrong way (I had a friend into it)
Why? I’m not a watch guy. But I think the engineering is beautiful. It’s also super niche, so there isn’t a financing model outside this to fund it.
guax
The engineering and craft is beyond reproach, beautiful, involved, unique.
The market in which it needs to exist is exclusive, arrogant and elitist. So there is a bittersweet response to it. Makes me think of Royal arts of the past, made to adorn the palaces and display wealth. beautiful, but they're better now at museums. I believe this watch shall too.
JumpCrisscross
> beautiful, but they're better now at museums
Strongly disagree. Pilfered artefacts are usually safer in a Western museum. But they’re more beautiful when left in their natural environment. In any case, if there is one thing sillier than someone with no respect for fine watches treating them as a status symbol, it’s getting upset about it as a bystander.
milesrout
[flagged]
__loam
You can get a watch that's more accurate and more complex than one of these for under $1000 in an Apple watch or a Casio.
For me, this feels like one of the less harmful things rich people do. Ultimately you're paying a bunch of skilled labor in a developed state to maintain an artistic craft that uses very little energy and material, for a device that has worse functionality than one under $100. The only issue is where you got your money I suppose, and whether that money would have been better spent elsewhere.
matheusmoreira
You can get a Casio F-91W and replace the movement with a Sensor Watch board. The watch then becomes a water resistant temperature compensated quartz wristwatch. It's a literally world class time piece. I calibrated mine and now it deviates a few seconds per year. It's insane how good this thing is. Low power, battery lasts over a year.
It's a fully programmable ARM microcontroller. You can write "watch faces" for it. There's a 2nd factor codes face that lets you log in like you're James Bond on the Nintendo 64. One of the coolest projects I've ever worked on. I made it possible to calibrate the pulsometer, a feature I use frequently at work.
They even developed a custom LCD that's even more awesome than the original.
TheOtherHobbes
The point of these is to signal you have money and are enough of an insider to know the high-status brands - or at least high-status enough for that particular social group, who use them to reassure each other they're not in the vulgar Rolex set.
They serve the same function as a designer handbag - although you can at least put things inside a handbag and carry them around.
CydeWeys
This is overly cynical. The target demographic for a really complicated Vacheron Constantin is a rich person who is a HUGE nerd about watches. Think about people who get into really high levels of nerd hobbies and acquire super expensive gear. It's not primarily about showing off.
KaiserPro
For a rolex, yeah.
For virtually any other watch, not so much as to the normal person they are just a watch
petesergeant
> They serve the same function as a designer handbag
Keeping EU trade imbalances from getting too far out of whack?
TimByte
Like yeah, purely from a utility standpoint, a $50 Casio destroys a mechanical watch in accuracy and durability. But not everything people value is about utility - sometimes it's about beauty, craftsmanship, or just the joy of making something wildly unnecessary really well
microtherion
There is its own beauty and craftsmanship in cramming billions of transistors on a 4nm die.
GuB-42
> If only my software were valued by number of complications...
If it fits within a size and power budget, then you essentially described sizecoding. In its extreme form, it is not practical, but it is an art form.
slt2021
in the B2B SAAS world these are called "features" or "integrations".
Software with the most integrations and features is usually ends up being the most preferred solution
Hamuko
Yeah, I was just thinking that our B2B SaaS has been trying to churn out as many features and integrations as possible, with customers constantly wanting more and more.
pixelpoet
If you asked someone what a "feature" is, in almost any context, they will probably give you the answer we all expect.
If you ask someone what a "movement" is, they might well refer to the poop they had that morning, or Eurythmy (which I had as a subject at school!), or almost anything.
That's not a statement about how basic language has become, but rather intentionally lofty vagueness (like "bespoke" instead of custom) people invent for things perfectly well described by expressions anyone can use like "high precision timekeeping", but not-so-subtly signaling a higher price.
mlyle
The word "movement" for a watch movement is old. Ditto for "complication". Or "calibre". They come from the late 1700s and early 1800s.
They were the normal words for the items described. They only sound fancy now that they have fallen into disuse.
Actually, ditto for bespoke, now that you mention it.
milesrout
This is a baffling criticism. Why would you expect a niche not to have its own jargon? Not that "bespoke" is (it is an older usage than "custom" and is used widely).
>people invent for things perfectly well described by expressions anyone can use like "high precision timekeeping"
What is "high precision"? Why are you using engineering jargon when you could say something simple like "accurate"? Why are you using such lofty elitist language?
konart
I (surely I'm not alone here) know many people who would say the same thing about software development "scene".
Hell, even _inside_ the software development "scene" you can easily find similar cases. Like when web developer who builds (relatevily) simple web apps on top of Rails earns notably more then someone who works with a complex hardware.
LeoPanthera
> If only my software were valued by number of complications...
Amateur radio software would win:
avidiax
Which part of that interface is unnecessary?
I agree, you could have an Apple-like interface that lets you tune a single frequency with a particular modulation, but nothing there seems like it's a constellation viewer that has almost no practical use.
internetter
At the very least, I think they could change some of the design elements to make more effective use of space
LeoPanthera
Where did I say that any of it was unnecessary?
tdeck
I thought this was going to be xnec2c, which has one of the most unintuitive UIs I've ever experienced.
https://www.xnec2c.org/#Nec2Treeview
But after a while I realized that's because it's essentially a graphical wrapper around a punched card program.
m463
software does have tail recursion.
This might be more like wrist recursion.
EDIT: I wonder if a nixie wristwatch would be a middle ground?
7373737373
I do hope watchmakers start to integrate "computational" (instead of temporal) complications into their watches, like a mechanical turing machine or other tiny mechanical computers or calculators which I believe have never been constructed this small.
Inspiration:
Wooden Turing Machine: https://youtube.com/watch?v=vo8izCKHiF0
Curta Calculator: https://youtube.com/watch?v=ZDn_DDsBWws
Zuse Z1 Computer: https://youtu.be/R5XnuT6ZLKg?t=283
Maybe also analog ones!: https://youtube.com/watch?v=s1i-dnAH9Y4
appplemac
It feels like a lot of complications the watchmakers are building now are stuck in the early 20th century. Sure, perpetual calendars will always be useful, but what about:
* pomodoro focus timers * multiple TZ support - like GMT watches but more than one additional TZ shown at once * timers * alarms
kingkongjaffa
All of those already exist.
World timers show every timezone
Alarms and timers are available.
Pomodoro can be done with something as simple as a rotating divers bezel.
I agree it would be cool to have them more available in cheaper watches, most complications increase the cost and the more niche you get
microtherion
What I really want is a mechanical bluetooth implementation. It would open up so much other functionality…
7373737373
Maybe possible with a mechanical speaker and microphone, or a tense string between two watches ;)
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rpicard
The recent Acquired episode on Rolex is a great peak into the world of luxury Swiss watches: https://www.acquired.fm/episodes/rolex
What I love about it all is that whatever arguments are made for or against these sorts of things, I think people are just into it because it’s fun.
JacobiX
What I like about mechanical watches is that, having survived a near-death experience when quartz watches were introduced, they’ve evolved into a completely different kind of product. It’s fascinating that, unlike most other businesses and products, people don’t buy them for their utility, and the less automated their production process, the better. Brands like A. Lange & Söhne even pride themselves on assembling their movements twice.
When inefficiency and craftsmanship are considered features rather than flaws, you have an industry that won’t easily be replaced by AI or robots.
wiether
> people don’t buy them for their utility
That's called luxury goods and that's not limited to watches.
s0rce
Exactly, a painting, for example, has zero utility.
nevertoolate
What item on a wall would have more utility I wonder.
gcanyon
Time Measurement (6 Total):
1. Day and night indication for reference city
2. Second time zone hours and minutes (on 24-hour display)
3. World time indication for 24 cities
4. Second time zone day and night indication
5. 3Hz tourbillon with silicon balance wheel (with high Q factor)
6. Civil time display module coupled to the base movement
Gregorian Perpetual Calendar (8 Total): 7. Perpetual calendar
8. Days of the week
9. Date
10. Months
11. Year indication
12. Leap-year indication
13. Indication for the number of the week within the year (ISO 8601 calendar)
14. Number of the day of the week (ISO 8601 calendar).
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers ‘Solaria Ultra Grand Complication’
Lunar Indication (3 Total): 15. Astronomical Moon phase and age of the Moon
16. Tide level indicator
17. Spring and neap tides indication.
Astronomical Indications (14 Total): 18. Indications of seasons, equinoxes, solstices & astronomical zodiac signs
19. Position of the Sun
20. Sunrise time (according to the city of reference)
21. Sunset time (according to the city of reference)
22. Duration of the day (according to the city of reference)
23. Equation of time on tropical gear
24. Culmination time of the Sun (according to the city of reference)
25. Height of the Sun above the horizon (according to the city of reference)
26. Declination of the Sun, 3-dimensional Earth showing the latitude of the Sun in the North/South hemisphere
27. Sidereal hours
28. Sidereal minutes
29. Astronomical zodiac signs
30. Sky chart (according to the city of reference)
31. Temporal tracking of celestial objects.
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers ‘Solaria Ultra Grand Complication’
Chiming Complications (5 Total): 32. Minute repeater
33. Westminster carillon chime (4 hammers & 4 gongs)
34. Choice of hour-only or full chime
35. Crown locking system during the chiming
36. Double-stop hammer system to limit rebound and optimize transmission of the hammers' kinetic energy
Chronograph (4 Total): 37. Chronograph (1 column wheel)
38. 60-minute counter
39. Split-seconds chronograph (1 column wheel)
40. Isolator system for the split-seconds chronograph
Additional Feature: 41. Power-reserve indication (outer disc at 190°)
mofunnyman
For those of you that don't know a lot about Swiss mechanical movements, this watch isn't just nuts, it's fuckin nuts.
TimByte
Right?? This is like mechanical watchmaking turned all the way up to 11, took a left turn into madness, and just kept going
atonse
I’ve never heard of this company but according to the video below, they’re large enough to have a huge building.
How do these economics work? I’m guessing they’re a maker of very expensive low volume products. But are there that many buyers?
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/video-vacheron-constantin-...
Same with Richard Mille. Never heard of them but they’re rich enough to sponsor the Ferrari F1 team.
umanwizard
They are both extremely well-known luxury watch manufacturers. The fact that you haven’t heard of them has nothing to do with them, it just means you’re not into luxury watches.
atonse
Indeed. In case I didn't explicitly state it, I was expressing more of a fascination that there are these companies that seem to make high priced luxury items (so they have to be low volume, and likely handmade) but are still large enough in scale to afford these massive fancy buildings, as opposed to be boutique watchmakers, which is how I would intuitively think of this class of craftsmanship.
dharmab
To give you an idea of margins:
- A real Rolex dive watch costs $5k-15k.
- A similar Swiss-made dive watch from a less famous brand costs $2k-4k.
- A similar Japanese-made dive watch from a famous brand costs $500-1000.
- A Chinese-made replica/fake Rolex, mechanically identical to a real one, and only distinguishable by an expert under high magnification, costs about $400-800.
- There are some low-volume watches that are sold for 4-6 figure sums to repeat buyers. Richard Mille in particular has done one-offs for celebrities in the range of 7-8 figures.
As you can imagine you don't need a high volume with margins that large.
manarth
> A real Rolex dive watch
The "dive" part is a red herring these days, as the use of watches to manage decompression strategies has declined since the 90s, and by early 2000s dive computers became the default tool. Use of a dive-watch for diving is almost non-existent these days.Some example dive computers, for those interested:
- Suunto Zoop [1] - Shearwater Perdix [2] - Garmin Descent [3]
[1] https://www.suunto.com/en-gb/Products/dive-computers-and-ins...
cjpearson
It's simply a description of the style of the watch. Just as most people wearing a bomber jacket aren't flying B-52s, and most trench coat wearers aren't fighting in trenches, most dive watch wearers aren't diving. They are still useful terms, despite their relative professions moving on to newer tech.
KaiserPro
Think of it like “art”
You’re paying for time. Seiko make great watches with cnc machines under the orient brand. They cost about £150-300.
In terms of watch, it’s the same type of parts and accuracy as a base Rolex.
Rolex you are paying for the name. Yes, they are better quality than an orient, but not much. There is better QC, and more people looking at the watch before it’s sent out, but in terms of precision of manufacturing, or amount of cnc machine used, it’s mostly the same.
There is a thriving scene in small watch producers, spinnaker, holthinrich, de ryke and co, vortic, Weiss, lorier to name a few. Some are sub £300, others not.
dharmab
I will say there is a easily noticeable jump in build quality from a $300 Orient or Seiko to something like a Tudor Black Bay, or even some of the microbrands in the 2-4k range. You can especially feel it by rotating the bezel and feeling the play in either direction.
But after that tier the quality increase to price ratio pretty much drops to zero.
yjftsjthsd-h
That's the price, but as someone ignorant of this area, I don't know enough to even guess margins from that. How expensive are the parts? I would assume that grade of mechanical components aren't cheap. And we should probably price in the labor.
nextos
Panerai is a good example to estimate margins. When they were unknown, watches costed $1-2k. This was in the mid 90s. Same models now, distributed by a big luxury conglomerate, cost 5-10x more. Quality and components on comparable models are virtually the same.
Likewise, long ago, Rolex was a toolwatch brand and their products were relatively affordable. They are still great, but prices are insane. Vacheron Constantin is on a different class, though, as they sell lots of watches in the high horology category. Insanely complex and difficult to produce. Some similar brands have had financial issues or gone bankrupt.
CydeWeys
These are luxury products. That's not the point. They use precious metals when steel would work just as well, and the really high end ones take hundreds of hours of hand labor to very finely decorated the dials and movements. Why? Because it's luxury. It's art.
And let's not even get into how much money they spend on marketing and sponsorships ..
noitpmeder
The labor and design are probably the most expensive parts. Think hundreds if not thousands of hours of many ultra specialized people's time.
The actual raw material has to be a fraction of the worth.
colechristensen
>How expensive are the parts?
They make the parts.
__loam
Vacheron Constantin is one of the big 3 Swiss watch brands that also include Patek Phillipe and Audemars Piguet. These are a tier above Rolex and Omega and they specifically trade on scarceness and exclusivity. You haven't heard of them because they advertise in very specific places to watch nerds and the very wealthy. Each watch can be like $30,000 to $50,000, or even $120,000 for small run products with unique complications.
There's more interesting brands like Moritz Grossman and Bovet that make even rarer pieces but fewer people have heard of them.
bitmasher9
> economics
* Margin. A relatively low prestige Swiss brand (Tag) has stated they charge 3x bill of materials for their watches. The more exclusive the brand, the higher this number goes.
* Volume might be higher than you think. Popular Swiss models sell in the tens of thousands of units a year. Not bad if you’re charging four or five figures per unit.
* Consolidation. There’s a handful of actual parent companies for watch making that are responsible for most sells. Swatch, Citizen, Rolex. They share resources between each other.
* Common suppliers. Some movements are used in multiple brands, even across multiple parent companies. Sometimes a company will buy a movement, modify the movement, and completely rebrand it. This allows better economics of volume for the most complicated aspects of watches.
* Marketing works. There’s no practical reason to buy a $10k (or $40k) Rolex compared to a $25 Casio. There’s a reason James Bond wears expensive watches and that reason is product placement. Some watch conglomerates are publicly traded, so you can look at how much they spend on marketing.
* The fact that you haven’t heard of the brand is part of the point. If you’re wearing >$100k on your wrist you probably don’t want everyone to know. Even at this price point, it’s a highly liquid asset in some cities.
jsheard
> There’s a reason James Bond wears expensive watches and that reason is product placement.
Only since Goldeneye when Omega started paying for product placement. Bond had worn Rolex since the original novels, which were written before their big pivot to luxury, so him wearing expensive Rolexes in later films was more of a historical accident. Rolex never actually paid a cent to appear on screen.
microtherion
The novels always had a lot of wealth signaling from Bond. E.g. in 1953, he ate an avocado, which to British consumers at the time was virtually unknown.
lossolo
Richard Mille is well known to anyone interested in watches, especially very rich people. You probably haven’t heard of Jacob & Co? Or maybe you’ve heard of Hublot? It’s the same story with Loro Piana when it comes to clothing, and Koenigsegg or Pagani when it comes to cars.
In certain circles, all of these brands are as common as Nike or Mercedes are to the general public.
sbassi
Richard Mille watches, priced at $500,000 or more per piece, are primarily used by wealthy individuals, elite athletes, and Hollywood stars.
KaiserPro
Richard mille watches are a brilliant way to work out who is a prick. Neer trust anyone who wears one.
milesrout
[flagged]
magicalhippo
> primarily used by wealthy individuals, elite athletes, and Hollywood stars
I'm assuming the two latter categories are sponsored to get the first category to buy?
I just know these brands from F1 where the drivers are sponsored, which is very obvious from the way they wear them.
bookofjoe
You will notice at Grand Slam tennis matches the first thing the winner does — even before walking out for the interview — is put on the watch made by their sponsor.
atonse
Right, again my point is, if you're charging 500k for a watch, isn't the market for that watch relatively small (people who have the money + people who care about the watch?) Or are they actually selling, say, a thousand of them?
As I'm saying this, I realize selling a thousand of them probably isn't a crazy volume.
quickthrowman
Vacheron is part of Richemont, a watchmaking conglomerate/holding company.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richemont
It works like any other luxury company, charge an arm and a leg, control the supply so you don’t overproduce, spend a ton on marketing.
Almost all Swiss watch brands (by volume) are owned by either Richemont, Swatch Group, or LVMH. Rolex, Patek, Audemars Piguet, Breitling, and Chopard are the last of the big Swiss independents, but there are smaller ones like Czapek and Cie, H Moser & Cie, Gruebel Forsey, Richard Mille.
null
bradfitz
"most complicated" as if that's something's to be proud of! :)
smugglerFlynn
This is a word play - in the watch world “complication” means “feature”, and this watch has 41 features, which requires tricky design decisions and high precision to house everything in a case that is still wearable.
Something to be proud of, for sure.
umanwizard
It’s not even word play. Complicated is just a term of art meaning having complications.
pests
I don’t see how it isn’t word play? If watch features weren’t called complications then I’d agree with you.
Many moons ago, William Gibson did a piece for Wired about his obsession with mechanical watches[1]. The whole thing is worth a read but this bit is worth quoting:
""" Mechanical watches are so brilliantly unnecessary.
Any Swatch or Casio keeps better time, and high-end contemporary Swiss watches are priced like small cars. But mechanical watches partake of what my friend John Clute calls the Tamagotchi Gesture. They're pointless in a peculiarly needful way; they're comforting precisely because they require tending.
And vintage mechanical watches are among the very finest fossils of the pre-digital age. Each one is a miniature world unto itself, a tiny functioning mechanism, a congeries of minute and mysterious moving parts. Moving parts! And consequently these watches are, in a sense, alive. They have heartbeats. They seem to respond, Tamagotchi-like, to "love," in the form, usually, of the expensive ministrations of specialist technicians. Like ancient steam-tractors or Vincent motorcycles, they can be painstakingly restored from virtually any stage of ruin. """
https://web.archive.org/web/20240930092315/https://www.wired...