How much do you think it costs to make a pair of Nike shoes in Asia?
1035 comments
·April 9, 2025rayiner
Americans need to get over their view of “Asia” as being about making shoes. When I was working in engineering in the early aughts, we mocked the Chinese as being able only to copy American technology. Today, China is competitive with or ahead of America in key technology areas, including nuclear power, AI, EVs, and batteries.
We need to anticipate a future where China is equal to America on a per capita basis, but four times bigger. Is that a world where “Designed by Apple in California, Made in China” still makes sense? What will be America’s competitive edge in that scenario?
What seems most likely to me in the future is that the US will find itself in the same position the UK is in now. Dominating finance and services won’t mean anything when both the IP and the physical products are being produced somewhere else.
pjc50
> US will find itself in the same position the UK is in now
The thing is .. there's a point here, but it's not at all tied in with physical products. People are obsessed with one side of the ledger while refusing to see the other. Most of the stuff the UK is struggling with (transport, healthcare, energy) are "state capacity" issues. Things where the state is unavoidably involved and having better, more decisive leadership and not getting bogged down in consultations, would make a big difference.
The UK stepped on its own rake because it was obsessed with tiny, already vanished industries like fishing. Fishing is less profitable for the whole UK than Warhammer. It's not actually where we want to be. While real UK manufacture successes (cars, aircraft, satellites, generators, all sorts of high-tech stuff) get completely ignored. Or bogged down in extra export red tape thanks to Brexit.
To improve reality, we have to start from reality, not whatever vision of the past propaganda "news" channels are blathering about.
myrmidon
> Fishing is less profitable for the whole UK than Warhammer.
This sounded completely insane to me. I tried to look up numbers and found that Games Workshop brings in > 0.5 billion in revenue (!!), compared to all of UKs fisheries at 1 billion-ish (profit margins are, as you'd expect, pretty favorable for the plastic figurines that they don' even paint for you).
Thanks for this interesting fact.
eyko
It's also worth considering that certain industries (fisheries and agriculture for instance) are subsidised. It's in our national interest to maintain production capacity, so profits are the least of our concerns. Both the UK and the EU's agricultural sectors are heavily subsidised mainly for this reason. It's cheaper to import than to produce locally, especially with our environmental standards and targets, but we need to keep producing. More so in the current geopolitical climate.
And whilst nobody wants to risk being starved to submission, it's also equally important to promote more profitable sectors, and tax accordingly, so that we can support our more strategic sectors. I wouldn't say we're doing a good job at that for what its worth.
AndrewStephens
> Games Workshop brings in > 0.5 billion in revenue (!!)
I had no idea that Warhammer was such a huge industry - they must sell almost 600 sets a quarter.
iamacyborg
What’s even more astounding is that most of Games Workshop’s manufacturing remains in the UK.
bombcar
There's a problem with just directly comparing them - because JKR probably brings in more revenue to the UK than fishing, with Potter copyrights.
But most of that revenue goes to JKR, whereas most of the fishing revenue may end up in "working class" people's pockets.
jachee
> … that they don' even paint for you
Of course. That way they can sell you the official paints.
Fortunately, it seems they’ve dropped that you’re required to use the official paints if you want to enter a sanctioned tournament.
coldtea
And then you try to eat figurines, and find out they're not as digestable
test6554
A game that is not on a computer... So they don't even calculate damage or move distance for you. And you have to buy each figurine and paint it yourself...
And people are spending all their money on this? That's why we're not mining asteroids right now?
I feel like people could just use AR glasses for this and spend nothing but their time.
yellowapple
The UK ain't alone in that either. California's agricultural sector is one of the largest in the world (let alone in the US) in terms of revenue and output, in many cases providing most/all of national and even global supplies of various fruits, vegetables, and nuts. Virtually all American almonds and broccoli, 90% or more of American dates and avocados, top producer of peaches and dairy products, the list goes on.
And yet, California's entire agricultural sector only totals to $50 billion in annual revenue. There are multiple tech and entertainment companies in California that individually surpass that, in some cases (like Apple and Amazon) by an order of magnitude.
rayiner
The free traders also need to accept the reality that the UK’s decline started long before Brexit and disputes about fishing. In terms of per capita GDP, the UK lost its edge over the rest of Europe in the 1970s, and then simply never recovered from the 2008 global financial collapse. Without the empire, the UK’s “competitive advantage” in financial and legal services wasn’t worth shit.
I strongly suspect the US cannot maintain its outsized per capita wealth, on the back of the reserve dollar, in a world where China has an economy twice the size. Just as the UK couldn’t when the US economy overtook the British empire and the dollar replaced the pound as the reserve currency.
The question, instead, is how we’ll be able to adapt to that new reality. And I suspect we’d rather be Germany in that future than the UK.
immibis
The US appears to be trying to end the reserve dollars. Something that surprisingly few people have mentioned recently is that having the biggest trade deficit is the same thing as being the global reserve currency. Because they're the same thing, ending one of them also ends the other.
There does seem to be some sort of cycle in play: first a slave-driver-type economy creates a whole lot of wealth, then people get human rights, then they stop being driven like slaves and coast off the accumulated power, but forget the basic principles of wealth creation in the process (see also "good times create weak men" etc) and just spend all their resources arguing about who gets the wealth that is there instead of creating more. And I'm not saying that in an individualist framework - the reason individuals can't do it is a problem with the whole society, not with those individuals.
matt-p
I think Germany is a bit of a special case due to what happened after the war, I think a more objective comparison might be say France.
sdwr
Yeah this is arguably the tail wagging the dog - Trump is a reaction to the end of US hegemony, not the cause
ajb
There are two parts to the fishing thing. From a pure economic perspective, fishing is insignificant. But within living memory obtaining food was a national security issue for the UK (during world war II). In a world in which states look not to grow their economy, but to harm others - and guess what, that's where we just arrived - not all industries can be considered purely on their revenue. Man cannot live on warhammer alone.
We need to distinguish between paying over the odds to keep industries which are essential to have in an antagonistic scenario, from loss-aversion and nostalgia for industries which don't provide as much employment as they used to.
Symbiote
A precision injection moulding factory can (I assume) relatively quickly start producing other plastic parts for military use.
Post-Brexit, there's now increased incentive for Games Workshop to build their next factory in the EU.
(Games Workshop is one company, but this applies to every manufacturing company in the UK.)
mvc
How much of a fish industry will remain when the North Sea is a battleground?
Is there any fishing going on in the Black Sea at the moment? (genuine question)
throw0101c
> […] are "state capacity" issues. Things where the state is unavoidably involved and having better, more decisive leadership and not getting bogged down in consultations, would make a big difference.
See "America needs a bigger, better bureaucracy":
> I believe that the U.S. suffers from a distinct lack of state capacity. We’ve outsourced many of our core government functions to nonprofits and consultants, resulting in cost bloat and the waste of taxpayer money. We’ve farmed out environmental regulation to the courts and to private citizens, resulting in paralysis for industry and infrastructure alike. And we’ve left ourselves critically vulnerable to threats like pandemics and — most importantly — war.
[…]
> If government spending isn’t going to pay government workers, it must be going to pay people who work in the private sector — nonprofits, for-profit contractors, consultants, and so on. In other words, state capacity is being outsourced. But this graph doesn’t actually capture the full scope of the decline, because it doesn’t include outsourcing via unfunded mandates — things that the government could do, but instead simply orders the private sector to do, without providing the funding.
* https://www.noahpinion.blog/p/america-needs-a-bigger-better-...
Mentions the paper "State Capacity: What Is It, How We Lost It, And How to Get It Back" (22pp, so short):
* https://www.niskanencenter.org/wp-content/uploads/2021/11/br...
And the book Bring Back the Bureaucrats: Why More Federal Workers Will Lead to Better (and Smaller!) Government:
* https://www.rutgersuniversitypress.org/templeton-press/bring...
AnthonyMouse
That article seems confused, e.g.:
> If government spending isn’t going to pay government workers, it must be going to pay people who work in the private sector — nonprofits, for-profit contractors, consultants, and so on. In other words, state capacity is being outsourced.
The money is going to social security payments. Social security went from <1% of federal spending at its outset to more than 20% of federal spending today. Medicare and other assistance programs are a similar story. Most of the money from these programs goes to paying benefits rather than administrative costs, which is generally regarded as a good thing. But they're also what together now constitute the majority of federal spending.
Meanwhile there is another reason why the number of government workers has gone down: Computers were invented. Things that used to be done by hand are now done by machine, and then you don't need as many clerks and bookkeepers to manually process paper records. This is also generally regarded as a good thing.
The points it makes about unfunded mandates and NIMBYs holding everything up with meritless lawsuits are valid, but the "ministerial review" it proposes is the existing permitting process. The problem is we have unfunded mandates and NIMBY lawsuits on top of that, which could simply be deleted and replaced with nothing.
This really seems like the fundamental misunderstanding:
> And guess who’s responsible for monitoring Medicare spending? Bureaucrats. So that’s at least a 2300% return on investment in bureaucracy!
If you only look at the most efficient thing a bureaucrat could be doing, look how efficient bureaucrats are!
Meanwhile the government is still paying thousands of people to process paper records because although computers were invented many decades ago, only parts of the government have discovered them and there are still many things you have to do by bringing physical documents to government offices to be processed in person even when those things have no legitimate reason not to be a government website.
What we need is not to have more bureaucrats, but rather to finish computerizing the things that have no reason not to be so the existing government employees can do the high value stuff instead of wasting time shuffling paper that should have been bits.
vkou
> Most of the stuff the UK is struggling with (transport, healthcare, energy) are "state capacity" issues.
Oh, boy, let me tell you, the 'State capacity' of the United States, when it comes to doing things that aren't making war on its own, or other people, was both rotten to begin with, and won't survive another four years of this regime.
Dysfunctional as the UK is, it's government is not stuck at a triple point of learned helpelessness, intentional sabotage and paralysis (the US is currently, among other things, doing its best to bring cured diseases back), and a deeply negative-sum culture.
I've heard that the United States was a magical land of milk and honey in this respect, back when 'competent bureaucracy' wasn't a swear word in it, but I understand that ended ~45 years ago. (With a few surviving holdouts, like the Fed)
FredPret
All this talk of state capacity and global trade puts me in mind of Europa Universalis
logifail
> The UK stepped on its own rake because it was obsessed with tiny, already vanished industries like fishing
This isn't just a UK issue:
"Fishing is a relatively minor economic activity within the EU. It contributes generally less than 1 per cent to gross national product."[0]
and if you look beyond fishing, agricultural policy as a whole is - not sure how to put this politely - not easy to understand:
"The CAP is often explained as the result of a political compromise between France and Germany: German industry would have access to the French market; in exchange, Germany would help pay for France's farmers [..] The CAP has always been a difficult area of EU policy to reform [..]"[1]
[0] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_Fisheries_Policy [1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_Agricultural_Policy
matt-p
For another "not just the UK" example france has managed to persuade the EU not to buy british weapons out of the extra defence fund unless the UK give France some of it's fishing rights. Can you imagine being Poland and not getting the best anti-tank weaponry, or the best missiles because you want the french to have more fishing rights?
Completely barking mad.
https://www.politico.eu/article/uk-rejects-eu-plan-tie-defen...
Izikiel43
> While real UK manufacture successes (cars, aircraft, satellites, generators, all sorts of high-tech stuff) get completely ignored
Here is my take on this:
For those things, you probably need a lot of technical training and/or advanced degrees.
For fishing you just need to be more or less healthy and be able to follow instructions.
Most people are more or less healthy and are able to follow instructions. A small subset of those has advanced technical training and/or advanced degrees.
Therefore, fishing becomes important because a lot more people can do it, and those people vote.
wahern
> Fishing is less profitable for the whole UK than Warhammer.
There are 3x as many fishermen in the UK than employees of Games Workshop, and much more again if you count the number of related fishery jobs.
At the end of the day, politicians and voters alike respond more to employment than nominal monetary figures. A broader employment base is generally better for social and political stability than explicit wealth redistribution (e.g. tax + entitlements). The latter is what economic theory tends to emphasize--i.e. equivocate incomes based on state wealth redistribution schemes--but such economic theory is how we got Trump, Brexit, and a host of other ills. Economics hasn't figured out, yet, how to price the constituent inputs that produce political and economic stability. GDP, Gini, per capita income, employment rate, etc metrics are gross approximations that work well until they don't (though they're still better than rhetoric and handwaving). But to be fair, social and political theorists haven't solved that problem, either; at least, not with a rigorous quantification model.
throwaway7783
"A broader employment base is generally better for social and political stability than explicit wealth redistribution"
. This is what stops revolutions and civil wars.
matt-p
Sorry, but I don't think this is the reason. There were vastly more people in financial services calling for us NOT to have brexit than fishermen asking for it, even in number of people. I honestly don't think this was a numbers of people affected vs "% of GDP" affected issue. Not at all.
What good did it do for us? At the time everyone was running around rubbishing and laughing at the "outrageous" claims of 10% GDP loss, and where are we now?
lolinder
Be careful extrapolating based on China's current population and demographics. Too much of our armchair assessments of China's velocity is based on their meteoric rise on the backs of a historically large working-age population—a population that is now rapidly aging out of the workforce with nothing to replace it thanks to the one child policy. The US's demographics aren't stellar, but they're a lot better off than most of the developed world.
It remains to be seen how different 2010's China—with 90% of the population being under 60—is from 2050's China—with only 69% of the population being under 60.
forgotoldacc
India has a bigger population but they haven't risen anywhere near the way China has.
China's rise was due to smart planning and investment in their people and infrastructure. The country went from peasant farmers to the manufacturing hub of the world in a generation. Now they're in the process of becoming a major hub of knowledge workers while keeping a strong manufacturing backbone.
And one thing I rarely see mentioned is that the Chinese government keeps its currency artificially devalued in order to sell their products cheaply and undercut competition. Looking at their economy purely on a GDP basis really underestimates how big their economy is. GDP by PPP is more accurate. If China ever decides to stop loosely pegging its currency and let the value naturally rise, their GDP will very likely swell, since GDP is measured in US dollars.
Sammi
You completely disregarded the central thesis of the comment you responded to.
The one child policy means there are no people to do the manufacturing in China in the future. The population pyramid is inverted. You can't do manufacturing without lots and lots of people. Or at least you'll get out competed by your neighbours who have lots of labor.
anticodon
India has no energy. It imports most of its energy. While China has lots of coal and burns it to provide energy for its industries.
throwaway2037
I am genuinely curious about what would happen if China allowed their currency (RMB/CNY) to float. The most obvious thing I can see that would put tremendous downward pressure on the currency would be capital flight from China to more politically predictable/safe places. Currently, normies are limited to 50K USD per year. (Of course, there is a large grey market to move more money.)
lolinder
India's population pyramid is about where China's was in 2000. Their bulge of working age people is just barely hitting the workforce, so it's way too early to say what the outcome will be by 2045 when they've ridden the wave the way China did.
peterfirefly
The one-child policy didn't play as large a role as people in the West think. Chinese fertility rates had already fallen drastically before that policy.
(It was also not as absolute as people in the West think. There were exceptions for rural China and minorities.)
spaceman_2020
It’s a little more nuanced than that. Western demographics are largely propped up by immigration, which brings with it its own sociopolitical challenges. What you gain in demographics, you might lose in social cohesion and political stability.
lolinder
It's a lot more nuanced than that. China's internal diversity is much higher than Westerners typically understand, and their social cohesion and political stability are less well maintained than their external-facing image would lead you to believe.
newuser94303
China installed more industrial robots than the rest of the world combined.
https://ifr.org/downloads/press2018/2024-SEP-24_IFR_press_re...
https://ifr.org/ifr-press-releases/news/global-robotics-race...
Herring
> What will be America’s competitive edge in that scenario?
Comparative advantage means countries benefit from specializing in producing goods or services where they have the lowest relative opportunity cost - not necessarily where they're the best overall. Even if China focuses on technology (and this is far from decided), America can still thrive by specializing in other areas where its relative efficiency or unique capabilities are better.
Examples: Germany specializes in high-precision manufacturing, India does well with software development, IT services, and medicines, Australia exports minerals, natural resources, and agricultural products, etc. Everybody brings something to the table. The world economy cannot possibly get worse by adding 1B people doing top-level work.
> Ricardo's theory implies that comparative advantage rather than absolute advantage is responsible for much of international trade.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparative_advantage
BTW these would have been great ECON 101 discussions to have before the election.
harvey9
India does well on software development partly on a volume basis. Their top end developers often want to move abroad for career development and earning potential. I would not be surprised if potus put tariffs on H1Bs
alfalfasprout
Trump is on the record extensively as being very pro H1B (probably spurned on by Musk, Zuck, and Pichai). Because many of these workers can be overworked without complaint for lower compensation than American workers.
It's never been about protecting Americans...
FredPret
Wouldn't this just be income tax?
null
seanmcdirmid
The US was going down the "let dominate IP/technology" angle for awhile, but we only accomplished it with imported labor (look at any SWE shop). China is obviously developing the talent to do the same, and they are rapidly automating manufacture work as they approach a demographic cliff. They are basically making all the right investments for the future while we try to go back to the 1950s. It is extremely frustrating.
rcpt
They're doing the right thing just about everywhere. Except real estate. One wrong move and it's 90s Japan all over again.
seanmcdirmid
I think Japan would have pushed through their real estate bubble if they just able to focus on automation like they were in the 80s and 90s. But the rise of cheap labor and great logistics in China ironically did those efforts in (or maybe it came too early?) and the Japanese economy fell behind for two decades.
bamboozled
Back to coal mines.
sterlind
it really seems like there's a push to de-skill Americans. like Bessent's remark that the laid-off civil servants could become factory workers as we bring back domestic manufacturing, and the recent corporate push towards vibe coding and integrating AI everywhere, and the purge of seasonal and unskilled migrant workers while keeping the H1B program.
it almost seems like we're trying to clear immigrants out of the chicken plants to make room for laid-off graphic designers.
lossolo
This. Anyone who doesn’t believe it — please go spend some time in Shenzhen, Shanghai, or similar cities, like I did. I just got back from China. I’ve been (also lived and worked) to the U.S. many times, and I can confidently say that China’s tier-1 cities are on another level when it comes to development and QoL (and not only T1 cities, I was in smaller regions in the north too). It’s also incredibly clean, super safe, and the infrastructure is breathtaking.
toephu2
Yup, Chinese Tier 1 cities (Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, and Shenzhen) are probably 20 years ahead of their Western counterparts (in terms of crime, or lack thereof, public transportation, convenience, cleanliness, etc).
spaceman_2020
Cousin was in China last month. Left Shanghai for a meeting in Beijing in the morning. Was back in Shanghai by night
All via train. In cities that are 1300km apart.
tayo42
That's been my current dream trip for a little. I think it woukd be so cool to ride the trains around the country and see what it's really like there. Learning the language is hard though
markus_zhang
English is the second language of most young and middle-aged Chinese, so you should be fine at least in tier-s cities.
Symbiote
Remember to carry your passport at all times, as you'll need it to buy a train ticket.
Even a simple metro ticket.
You can also smile at the CCTV cameras, which are in groups every 100m or so within cities.
blacksmith_tb
I took a year of Mandarin as an undergrad, speaking is doable, reading and writing is hard, but Google Translate & Co. would make that less daunting now.
overfeed
> What will be America’s competitive edge in that scenario?
A few months ago, I'd have said soft-power and goodwill built over decades with the rest of the western world, which roughly equals China in population size. Instead, I agree that the US is staring down a "managed decline" like the UK, but hopefully not as steep.
doctorpangloss
…what does this have to do with shoes? A “managed decline?” Brother, the problem with the UK economy is Brexit. That was put in by a plebiscite. It’s not saying much, but at every level, including in the manufacture of shoes, the government has the greatest power to create or destroy wealth.
overfeed
Austerity measures predate Brexit by quite a bit as a result of deliberate choices by a conservative government. Brexit accelerated pre-existing downtrends.
Many parallels may be drawn: austerity vs DOGE in gutting government services, the deluded nativist/isolationist core of Brexit vs the tariffing the entire world, xenophobia, and most obviously a nostalgia of past-greatness that doesn't quite fit the present circumstances.
yapyap
> Americans need to get over their view of “Asia” as being about making shoes
I’m not sure if you’re just speaking on what you experience or because of this post but the OP is a clothing guy so it makes sense he will look at it from a clothing (including shoes) perspective.
I agree though, if Americans truly do see Asia as just the cheap clothing factory continent they’re sorely mistaken. All you have to do is to just look at TSMC (Taiwan Semiconductor Manufacturing Company) and realize that if you were impacting just that company alone you would get a slap in the face as a country, all (~70%) the major chips come from there.
I am aware the US is developing a Semiconductor factory in their own country but it is not done yet and it will not go as tiny in nms as TSMC already is.
null
subsubzero
I see what you are getting at but I have to disagree with alot of what you are saying.
> the US will find itself in the same position the UK is in now
The US and UK are totally different animals at the height of their "empire". The UK currently has little land and alot of it is devoid of minerals(sans coal). They achieved most of their might subjecting other countries and extracting resources from their colonies. Once the colonies and the rest of the world objected the British empire began to crumble as the colonies broke off from the UK.
Contrast that with the US which if it were to jettison its "colonies" (Puerto Rico, Samoa etc) you would see very little drop in GDP. The US has vast swaths of land which is excellent for farming, energy extraction and contains valuable minerals. It has widespread and diverse populations with wildly different ecologies and climates. In addition to a huge amount of resources it has a kings ransom of some of the best universities in the world(stanford, harvard, MIT, etc) and a highly educated society with living standards just below some small asian and european countries. The US also has a peerless military (we need hypersonic weapons however) and many aircraft carriers and nukes as well as world renown special forces groups. And lastly of the top largest 100 companies in the world, 65% are US based and this despite the US only having 4.2% of the worlds population, looking at GDP per country is almost comical as the US has 30T compared to the next largest economy China(19.5T), 3rd place is Germany at 4.9T.
williamDafoe
USA has three advantages that no place else in the world has. First we have the biggest oil deposit in the history of mankind with the Permian basin. Second we have more inland waterways in the Mississippi River system than the whole rest of the world combined and third this abuts the best farmland on the planet.
I would say that the USA also has an advantage of open immigration for intellectuals to keep our universities strong but the anti-intellectual Trump administration is destroying this advantage as fast as it can!
The greatest advantage that we ever had was to lead the free world in ideals. A friend of mine was telling me yesterday that every child in India when they reach the age of six wants to go to Harvard and settle in the USA. They want to stand up for freedom and for democracy and for putting down all the evil dictators in the world. We are losing this image very very quickly it could be gone in a matter of months!
Don't brag about our aircraft carriers it would take us 25 years to build 11 more. We are nowhere in ship building we destroyed our domestic shipbuilding in the 1980s when we reoriented it for military shipbuilding and then the Berlin Wall fell down and we drastically cut the military shipbuilding budget and that caused our shipbuilding to go to almost zero overnight (3 heavy ships per year nationwide whereas China's largest ship builder does THIRTY!).
9rx
The USA has also been greatly advantaged by being host to the world's reserve currency (also known as having a massive trade deficit). It has been able to buy, buy, buy without needing to sell in kind; essentially getting stuff for free.
But it wants to throw that out the window now too, for some reason. Crazy.
hx8
> But if we bump the cost of freight, insurance, and customs from $5 to, say, $28, then they wholesale the shoes to Footlocker for about $75. And if Footlocker purchases Nike shoes for $75, then they retail them for $150. Everyone needs to fixed percentages to avoid losses.
I don't understand this paragraph. If Footlocker was okay with $50 profit/shoe, why do they need to claim $75 profit/shoe in their costs per shoe go up? The costs of handling the shoes, retail space, advertising, and labor are all fixed.
matt-p
In theory, you're right, however it ignores some key points;
-Some of their costs are in fact linear based on the cost of the item.
Inventory cost doubles, perhaps now they have to take out higher interest debt to finance that. Things like insurance would also at least double.
Transaction fees (like card fees at about ~2%) and other parts (like returns risk) also increase linearly.
-Reduced sales due to increased prices.
If an item is less affordable people buy less of them. Theft will also go up. If trainers were $100 a week ago and are now $200 - you will sell less, they will be stolen more.
All in you actually do need more than the fixed $50 of margin if the wholesale cost of the item changes from $50 to $100 - it may actually be that $100 is the correct number, or even too little - sales volume would concern me the most, particularly on this 'luxury' item.
hmottestad
I think it depends a lot. I remember working in retail for a summer and saw some of the prices. If you wanted to buy an alarm clock, that was 100% markup, but if you wanted to buy the Garmin GPS then it was 15% markup.
I would think that specialised and expensive shoes have less markup than cheaper and more common shoes. But if the cheaper and more common shoes become 50% more expensive then there aren’t really any cheap shoes left to feed the bottom line…
appreciatorBus
IMO for the Garmin vs alarm clock example, it's less about costs and more about power & branding.
The retailer & the wholesalers involved all have a reasonable idea about what people will pay for the products in question. The portion of that final consumer price that stays with the retailer is just the result of negotiation.
The retailer can likely buy decent alarm clocks from anyone, so alarm clock makers & wholesalers have no pricing power and the retailer can demand high margins.
But the retailer can only get Garmin from Garmin. If Garmin has done a good job promoting the brand, such that the retailer feels they have no choice but to stock it, they will have to suck it up and accept low margins.
matt-p
Sure, but that has nothing to do with costs and everything to do with what the market will bear (while still recovering costs).
People will go and shop around for the best price on a $300 item, but for a $10 item they'll buy whatever's infront of them, so long as it's not clearly outrageous.
onlyrealcuzzo
Additionally, their risk increases.
If the shoes don't sell, their losses can get much larger.
They need the potential to make more profit to offset this this potential for larger losses.
It's kind of like asking why Sears needs to make $200 in profit selling a refrigerator but only $2 selling a t-shirt.
Because that's just how it works...
pc86
Which is why Derek [correctly] points out that everything is percentages, not fixed dollar amounts.
runeks
> Inventory cost doubles, perhaps now they have to take out higher interest debt to finance that.
I'm pretty sure Footlocker doesn't borrow money to pay Nike up front for inventory. Nike is smart enough to know that there's zero chance their shoes will be sold if they sit in a warehouse, so Nike might as well ship them to retailers and get paid gradually as the shoes are sold to consumers.
jmull
That's just a for-instance.
The general point is that additional cash is tied up in shoes which cannot do something else. Who bears the burden of the loss of that additional cash changes over time (Nike to Footlocker to consumers) but the burden is bourn.
(And that's before you count the impact of the inevitable reduction in unit sales. There're various kinds of overhead that don't scale linearly units sold, or that have a long lag before scaling, or have a significantly-sized step function in the scaling.)
BTW, where did the cash go? Oh yeah, into the hands of the US federal government. We have a word for that: tax.
bgirard
Presuming that theft rates will increase also if the item is more costly and affordable to less[edit*] people. Also if inventory is damaged in the warehouse or on the sales floor, lost or unsold then those cost scale with the cost of the item.
matt-p
To less people? I think I touched on that but yes.
All of that would typically be tied together as inventory cost (aside from theft, though some people do).
Lots of fascinating things in retail. Around half of all theft will be from your own employees, for example.
dughnut
[flagged]
crazygringo
It's a great question, and the answer is that you're missing the change in demand.
Let's say Foot Locker tries to keep the same absolute profit $50 and retails the shoes for $125 instead of the previous $100.
Now demand goes down, because more people will skip a new pair of sneakers. So Foot Locker's absolute profit goes down.
But they still have the same fixed retail space, advertising, and labor as you said.
So to try to keep their profitability, they need to increase the price more, which reduces demand even more, but it settles somewhere higher. And the place it settles (where total absolute profit is maximized) tends to be around the same 100% markup as before.
It doesn't need to be exactly the same, but as a general rule of thumb, these things do tend to work in proportional terms rather than absolute terms. And we're fortunate they do, because when manufacturing costs fall, that means absolute profit per unit can fall as well (while percentage remains the same), because it's made up for by more people buying.
rvnx
There is also the fact that with each USD you can buy less and less as a private person.
So to have the same quality of life, you expect higher returns.
Which mean that you will choose to invest into companies that offers a better return, and for that, these companies will have raise their prices, which in turn, spirals into additional price raises.
crazygringo
That's not the fundamental cause, though. Companies can't just raise prices to achieve whatever return they want, because once you go above the profit-maximizing price, the fall in demand outweighs additional revenue per item, and once you go above competitor's prices, demand similarly falls.
Yes investors look for maximal returns, but those are limited. Fundamentally the ceiling is set by demand and by your competitor's prices.
ty6853
Because the market recognized value add is the capital investment and returns, including the credit basis on which inventories flow. These people are operating on a per $ basis, not a per shoe basis. If the margins % lower then the capital will flow to something else more profitable and then prices rise until the margins are relatively flat across similar productive investments.
pfannkuchen
That doesn’t really make sense to me.
The market cares about dollar returned vs dollar invested. If some piece in the middle of the chain goes up and end customer prices go up as well, that doesn’t directly affect investors at all.
The way it could and likely will affect investors is if people start buying fewer shoes, but that is a different process than what you are describing.
If I’m off base can you help me understand what you are saying?
ty6853
Take this to the logic absurdity, you have a car you previously sold for $2 for $1 COGS. Tomorrow COGS is $1M for the car. Could you sell it for $1M+1? No you would lose your ass because your line of credit and investments would not be able to be supported by the returns, in fact if this is your only option you would probably stop making cars altogether and invest in another business and sell your assembly line, eventually enough car companies would go out of business until the supply curve met a high enough % profit to normalize with performance of other businesses.
Now this analogy has a LOT of problems but the point is it directly affects investors, even if the interpolations inbetween are imperfect.
myrmidon
If you can make $5k/year by investing $100k into shoe-selling, then those profits have to rise at the same rate as base costs, otherwise, people will just invest into eggplant-selling, instead.
Another perspective is that Footlocker would sell you those $25 Nikes for $300 if they could-- but if they tried, someone else would get active in the retail business and invest into a slightly less profitable operation (with lower margins) to eat into their market share.
But if the costs for everyone rise, raising the prices proportionally (instead of by fixed amount) makes total sense because it is not really gonna cost you market share (only decrease total market volume depending on consumer price sensitivity).
Note: We just observed those exact dynamics with Covid/Ukraine driven price increases, where retailers and other middlemen actually came out really good instead of sacrificing their margins to keep consumer costs down.
hamburglar
Surely you can see that putting in $75 to make $150 for a $75 profit is significantly different than putting in $10075 to make $10150 for the same $75 profit, yes?
jon_richards
The market cares about dollar returned vs dollar-x-time invested. A shoe sits on a shelf until it is sold. If it costs 1.5 times as much to stock a store with shoes, then you need to earn 1.5 times as much money after the same time-delay.
Think in the extreme. $1 billion can probably earn more in a saving account than as a shoe that generates $50 profit after 2 weeks.
addaon
Selling shoes that you purchase wholesale for $75 has costs that go beyond selling shoes that you purchase wholesale for $50. There's the cost of money to buy the inventory, the cost of holding the inventory (and insuring it), the cost of shrinkage, the risk of being unable to sell some of that inventory. Most of those costs scale with the wholesale cost of the product being sold, although not necessarily fully linearly. As a result, a top line $50 margin on a $75 product gains you less than a $50 margin on a $50 product -- in a world with cheap capital. If you're restricted to holding $N of inventory due to cost of capital, this becomes even worse -- not only are your bottom line margins going down as much as 15%, but you're able to do it on only two thirds as much inventory, which (depending on turnover rates, etc) can drive you even lower.
skybrian
Inventory costs money not just due to the cost of storage, but also because it’s bought on credit. The higher the price, the more money needs to be borrowed. The longer it takes to sell it, the more interest needs to be paid.
(If it's not bought on credit, there is still opportunity cost, since that money could have been used for something else.)
pfortuny
Gains and losses are measured in % not in quantity because a dollar (or ant currency) has no fixed value.
Sorry: I intended to reply to the grandparent.
amluto
I don’t think this is quite a sufficient explanation. If I were an investor / owner of a distributor or retailer, I think I would observe that these businesses don’t scale arbitrarily and I would care about returns as a function of cost of goods sold, operating expense, and of cost of customer acquisition. In this context, cost of goods sold will include actual wholesale cost as well as associated costs that scale along with it: insurance, shrinkage, samples, etc. Cost of customer acquisition will not scale as strongly with wholesale cost — one would need to advertise a bit more to convince people to buy a more expensive shoe, but this should be less than linear. And operating expenses (retail square footage, warehouse space, cashiers, shipping and handling) are almost independent of the cost of the pair of shoes.
All that being said, tariffs drive up the cost of living, which drives up wages, which makes everything more expensive.
ajmurmann
In addition to the points others are making, there is also the increased cost of inventory that doesn't sell. The flipside to the high markups from retailers is the high discounts you get on last season's fashion. This is the "fixed percentage to avoid losses"
dizhn
My local produce store was complaing about this. The prices increased about 20 fold. What was once a small loss due to spoilage now became significant.
Vvector
But the cost of buying and holding inventory goes up. If a store has 10k shoes in inventory @ $50/each, they are carrying $500,000 in inventory. If the shoes now cost $75, they need $250k more for inventory. Capital for inventory isn't free.
anthony_d
The need for inventory decreases at the same rate as the sales throughout, e.g. if it takes twice as long to sell a pair of shoes than you only need to hold half as many.
treis
Because it's mostly wrong. Luxury goods like Nike's, iPhones, et.al. are priced to maximize revenue. If those started growing on trees for free it wouldn't appreciably change the price. They'd just bank the extra as profit.
kstrauser
An aside: the actual functional Nikes aren't luxury items, just really good shoes. My wife’s a foot surgeon and she won’t run in anything else because they fit her perfectly.
I've never found Nikes that work for me, but Brooks seem custom made for me personally, so that's what I get. They're about the same price as my wife’s Nikes.
hx8
I agree fully. Having comfortable shoes with reasonable lifespans isn't a luxury.
If you spend more money and get a proportional increase in quality, that's not luxury. A luxury good occurs when the marginal increase in quality cannot be justified by the increase in price. For example, you could buy a quartz Casio for $25 that's more accurate than a $10,000 mechanical Rolex. Both tell you the same time.
muzani
There's cost based pricing and there's price based costing.
Food and clothing, anything with complex supply chains tend to be cost based pricing. As a rule of thumb, it's x3, maybe x4 for a well-branded item like Nike or Calvin Klein. Most innovations are on supply chain. E-commerce was such a big thing because it could cut out one middle man and lead to 30% price cuts or profit margins, and yet all these online shops ended up appearing in malls anyway.
Software is price based costing because there's no fancy supply chain. iPhones may be somewhere in the middle, hardware tends to have the worst of both worlds - high fixed costs and lots of middle men.
A McDonald's may have franchises and may own some restaurants internally, but they don't want to lose money, so they may base it on the lower profit margins - it makes no sense for a burger in one spot to be $4 and a burger in the franchise to be $5; both need to be $5.
Generally luxury brand do use more expensive parts, whether or not those parts add to the quality. And they do have higher profit margins. But the retailers, distributors, etc still take a 30% cut or so. And in the end, Louis Vuitton is still probably making lower margins than Plants vs Zombies.
gorbachev
The truly luxury Nikes, the ones that cost way more than $100 - $150 are not priced to maximize revenue, however. The evidence is their pricing on secondary markets, which often price them at multiples of the retail price.
UncleEntity
The difference between selling every shoe at $150 and selling less than every shoe at $300 (or whatever the secondary market is charging) probably gets tossed around in pricing meetings.
Plus, higher secondary market prices drive demand for the less desirable shoes as everyone can't afford to spend a week's wages on a pair of shoes but can stretch their budget for the still-kind-of-cool models. I'd go so far as to say the secondary market prices drive more demand for the lesser models as the cool kids want to be seen wearing what the rich cool kids are wearing.
I'm sure they spend a lot of time discussing what price they can charge without people openly revolting against their 'predatory pricing' strategies.
lupire
Every product is priced to maximize profit (not revenue).
Apple sells lots of phones at different price points. So there is some price sensitivity via a vis value for money or competitive pressure.
alangibson
Short answer is return on investment. If I get $50 on a $75 investment when I used to get it on a $50 investment, my ROI goes down. My investors are now mad. They sell their stakes and buy into a company with a better ROI. My stock price goes down and now I'm mad.
allturtles
There was a very good exploration of this in the context of boardgames here: https://stonemaiergames.com/the-math-of-tariffs/
aimor
Trying to summarize the summary for myself
From a $100 shoe that sells for $76:
- $24 goes overseas (22 cost, 2 freight)
- $8 goes to the US gov't (3 import, 2 Nike tax, 3 Footlocker tax)
- $33 goes to US employees or businesses (5 Nike marketing, 11 Nike expenses, 17 Footlocker expenses)
- $5 goes to Nike (11% return)
- $6 goes to Footlocker (8% return)
But now with 100% tariffs, it's a $100 shoe that sells for $100 (or a $132 shoe that sells for $100) and:
- $24 goes overseas (22 cost, 2 freight)
- $29 goes to the US gov't (22 import, 3 Nike tax, 4 Footlocker tax)
- $33 goes to US employees or businesses (5 Nike marketing, 11 Nike expenses, 17 Footlocker expenses)
- $7 goes to Nike (11% return, 7.15 exactly)
- $7 goes to Footlocker (8% return, 7.45 exactly)
And if a US shoemaker wanted to undercut the import, a Made in USA shoe that sells for $100:
- $7+ goes to the US gov't (? shoemaker tax, 3 Nike tax, 4 Footlocker tax)
- $79 goes to US employees or businesses (46 to shoemaker, 5 Nike marketing, 11 Nike expenses, 17 Footlocker expenses)
- $7 goes to Nike (11% return, 7.15 exactly)
- $7 goes to Footlocker (8% return, 7.45 exactly)
nearbuy
This isn't what it says in the thread. It's saying Nike and retailers need to maintain their markup rate on their unit cost.
> And if Footlocker purchases Nike shoes for $75, then they retail them for $150. Everyone needs to fixed percentages to avoid losses.
The problem with your breakdown is you're mixing unit costs and net profit in a way that doesn't work. For example, say after increasing the price in accordance with your summary, the volume of sales halved (just to pick an easy number). Then the $17 marked as "Footlocker expenses" increases, likely to around $34, and Footlocker's profit becomes -$10. The absolute expenses haven't changed. They're still paying the same amount for their employees and storefronts. But with half as many shoes sold, the expense per shoe is doubled.
It's not just sales volume that affects the $17. Other costs like credit card fees or shrink scale with the unit cost as well.
singron
Just to say the obvious, they are also going to sell fewer/cheaper shoes according to the demand elasticity since the consumer price is 32% higher. Despite Nike making slightly more on a per-shoe basis, they are probably going to make less overall.
washadjeffmad
I wouldn't assume that they wouldn't segment products. Nike already offers more expensive lines with higher margins to offset less profitable ones. Why should we expect them to pass on direct costs to customers?
The blog also doesn't acknowledge the externalities of shipping. Having a "Nike USA" brand that becomes their premium domestic flagship won't incur the same logistical expenses or tariffs. I may be biased because I'm from a debtor colony that understood there's no way free people can compete with slave labor, but the distaste for compensating workers is largely a classist taboo.
People are theorycrafting ways to lose, but I would only expect that from a company that was trying to signal their disdain for current trade policy, not actually run their business.
milesskorpen
The piece to add there is that all this money is getting paid by the consumer. The overseas piece doesn't change, same number of US dollars going to the other country. The $24 increase in cost is paid by the US consumer.
barbazoo
That's what I don't get. It's always phrased as the US somehow making all this money when in reality it's Americans that are paying for it. Among other reasons to be able to afford tax cuts in the future. Sure this will hurt other economies but primarily right now it seems to hurt the American economy and people the most.
slg
It's just a sales tax. I don't know why people opposing tariffs never talk about them in this manner because sales taxes are something people innately understand if they have spent any time in the US and "tariffs" clearly aren't as well understood.
ajmurmann
It's worse than a sales tax. Tariffs have a few market-distorting effects that a sales tax doesn't.
* Domestic consumers and companies are incentivized to potentially go for the 2nd best product. This over time can impact productivity as the tooling will decline over time as inferior solutions are bought.
* Reduced competition. We've seen this with the 25% "chicken tax" on pickup trucks. Arguably one culprit in US automakers falling behind is that they had a protected market around pickup trucks where it was hard to impossible for foreign competition to keep them on their toes. So US automakers retreated more and more into this safe haven.
* Destruction of economies of scale: If everyone wants the entire supply chain to be replicated in their country, we obviously loose economies of scale and thus efficiency. This sounds like it would be small but having multiple Shenzhen's is just not viable and we'll have to deal with higher prices and less product choice.
* Galapagos island syndrome: Over time separation of markets can lead to incompatible technologies which amplifies all other points.
lostlogin
> sales taxes are something people innately understand if they have spent any time in the US
The way they are done in the US is maddening. You go to the counter and find the price is higher than the tag price by some random amount. It seems to vary wherever you go and depend on what you buy.
A tariff might actually be better.
aimor
Yes that's right. The manufacturing cost in the US would have to be $46 or less to undercut the import. So ignoring tax changes, something like...
A Made in USA shoe that sells for $100:
- $7+ goes to the US gov't (? shoemaker tax, 3 Nike tax, 4 Footlocker tax)
- $79 goes to US employees or businesses (46 to shoemaker, 5 Nike marketing, 11 Nike expenses, 17 Footlocker expenses)
- $7 goes to Nike (11% return, 7.15 exactly)
- $7 goes to Footlocker (8% return, 7.45 exactly)
Suppafly
>And if a US shoemaker wanted to undercut the import, a Made in USA shoe that sells for $100:
Somewhere in there you have to also figure in the cost of the fact that shoe factories and the suppliers of the goods to make shoes also don't exist in the US and will cost millions, and years, to get setup.
SV_BubbleTime
Is there a reason, be-it special buildings, tools, skills that shoes can not be made in the US to avoid the tariffs?
If Nike shoes exceed the cost of domestically produced shoes, isn’t that… like… kind of the point?
rsoto2
Every country has optimized their own economy so it's incredibly cheap for us to import shoes, or it was. Now it is not, so sure we could try to make some cheap shoes here. But now we have to make cheap shoes, grow cheap citrus veggies, make cheap computer chips, make cheap needles etc etc.
How much capacity do you think the US has to manufacture these things? and what about the supplies?
gnopgnip
You can buy made in USA sneakers like New Balance 990 series. Generally all the materials except the sole are US sourced. Retails for $200 a pair. What kind of sneakers do you buy?
Running a manufacturing business in the US is more expensive. Consumers largely won't pay more, it's a limited market. The machinery for molding soles only makes economical sense at a large scale.
SV_BubbleTime
They’ll pay more if the imported shoe costs the same or more.
The US does massive amounts of injection molding. I just signed off on my molds to be cut and run this month, how much experience do you actually have with this I wonder?
phkahler
I've always wondered why the supply chain has exponential price increase at each step. The example given (guessed at) is the factory produces the shoe for $12.5 and sells it to Nike for $25. Nike then sells it to Footlocker for $50 and they then sell to a customer for $100. Everyone expects to mark up their costs by about 100 percent. Why is that the case? Even if we say the markup isn't 100 percent, why is it a percentage of cost at all? If the shoe factory can make $12 then why can't Nike and Footlocker both make $12 and retail the shoe for $50?
I'm not saying things should be different, just wondering why it is the way it is. If Footlocker was also selling some cheapo shoe for $50 presumably they do the same amount of work to bring that to the store. Are they only paying $25 for those? Why does it cost half for them to handle a cheaper shoe?
audunw
On thing you have to consider is the scale at which these shoes are sold at each step. From the factory they're processed and shipped in giant containers. The overhead of handling each shoe is fairly small at that stage.
When it comes to the retailer, there's a huge increase in the amount of work and overhead for each shoe sold. And the labor cost for that work is much higher than on the Asian side of the supply chain. That's also where you get potential waste from returns and discarded inventory and such. The retailer also have their own marketing costs.
I don't find it strange at all that the retailer expects a 100% markup.
blitzar
Real estate is insanely expensive - you have to sell a lot of shoes with your "100% markup" to make rent.
The flip side however - e-commerce with its totally different cost structure and same traditional RRP as brick and mortar retail - should be - a gift from above for retailers.
conductr
In some cases, in e-commerce your trading rent for shipping expenses. It helps you scale quicker as you have wider reach but the variable cost of shipping and taking returns can go sideways.
The good thing about rent is it’s relatively fixed so it’s possible to gain leverage with volume. That is also a risk if volume shrinks, etc.
hattmall
It's more of a work backwards thing. The price is set by demand, what the market will bear, etc. Then for well established supply chain / commodity goods overhead tends to rise to meet COGS. The reason is that there exists profit taking at every level of "overhead" but when the cost of revenue exceeds the cost of goods it becomes a marker of inefficiency. In the same way when manufacturers recognize that their cost are less than the retailers overhead to generate sales they see room to raise costs so markets trend to 50/50.
But consider Footlocker sells a lot of other shoes for much less than Nikes. Those shoes don't cost any less to manufacturer and depending on the brand are just as well established so the 50/50 ratio still applies. It's just that at each level the overhead adjusts to meet the ratio over time.
For fringe brands the retailers markup can be huge 10x or more.
mcosta
> when the cost of revenue exceeds the cost of goods it becomes a marker of inefficiency
Welcome to Europe
yibg
The numbers at each step is only considering the marginal cost. There are various overheads that are fixed, some described in the article. And of the day the actual profit at each step isn’t necessarily very high.
timewizard
> chain has exponential price increase at each step.
The amount of risk increases at each step.
That $24 in "discounts." Almost certainly some amount of that is "shrinkage." Storefronts are expensive in more ways than one.
You could take your monthly rent and costs and then divide by size of a product times the average hold time before sale. Each item has to pay this price plus whatever you want in profit to "earn" it's place in your store. That time multiplier gets worse at each step with an extra kick in the behind if you took those items on credit.
The manufacturer holds the product for almost no time. The retailer may hold it for months.
anomaly_
because businesses have overheads? and customers have brand preferences that stop (or limit the success of) Footlocker just selling generic models without Nike's involvement?
energy123
Nike's margin is brand.
Footlocker probably doesn't have much of a margin, the price they charge is due more to high labor and real estate costs in the US which are being passed on.
gnfedhjmm2
Because then one unit of thing is theoretically one standard deviation from being profitable. So you can have a break even price.
phkahler
Can you clarify that? It sounds like there may be theory behind it, or are you trolling?
sandermvanvliet
Isn’t this simply taking advantage of what the market is willing to pay?
ZeroGravitas
Reminded me of the folk-comedy duo Flight of the Concords' song "Issues (Think about it)”:
> They're turning kids into slaves just to make cheaper sneakers.
> But what's the real cost?
> 'Cause the sneakers don't seem that much cheaper.
> Why are we still paying so much for sneakers
> When you got them made by little slave kids
> What are your overheads?
hnburnsy
The thread was kind of hand wavy over the "$24* discount" for Footlocker? From the linked article...
>Footlocker’s purchase price (read footnote #3) for every sale of $100 shows up as $66 in their financial reports, and not $50. In plain terms, Footlocker sells its merchandise for a 24% discount on the average.
So $100 was never the sale price, just some made up, hoped for number that only appears on the shoe box, and not on anyone's financial statements. Really this should be Footlocker makes $6 on selling a $66 sneaker, for a margin of ~9%.
BTW, both Footlocker and Dick's have gross margins ~30% but Dick's has an operating margin around 12% while FL is 1-2%. Clearly FL is an inferior retailer.
And the linked article does cover Nike selling directly...
>And what happens if brands skip the retailers and operate their own stores? adidas and Nike already have their own shops, but direct-to-customer retail comes with its set of challenges. Brands will incur costs otherwise absent in the wholesale business model; spends like leasing+manpower+operational costs, store set-up and periodic re-modelling cost, the entire risk of inventory, and costs associated with warehousing and distribution. That’s only at the store level, there will be additional off-site resources needed in the back-end to support retail operations. The brands will make some extra margin selling out of their own stores, but the best case scenario will be an additional 10%, which is slightly above what a highly evolved retailer like Footlocker makes annually after taxes.
I would argue that a great deal of selling today is direct, no stores involved at all.
notatoad
>So $100 was never the sale price, just some made up, hoped for number that only appears on the shoe box, and not on anyone's financial statements. Really this should be Footlocker makes $6 on selling a $66 sneaker, for a margin of ~9%.
yes. but any arguments you see in favour of onshoring manufacturing would use undiscounted list prices, so it makes sense to start from that place.
ForOldHack
Well, Since I am close to a Shoe Palace, I just walked in and talked to the sales man. He likes selling New Balance, and the price ranges from $34 to $167, and the $167 is a discount of 33%. I talked to him long enough that the assistant manager came over, and both of the really were ashamed at shoes made in Vietnam, and Cambodia, they got it, and I told them that
timothyduong
“ I would argue that a great deal of selling today is direct, no stores involved at all.”
That assumption burnt the previous Nike CEO post COVID.
Spivak
Yep, direct from the manufacturer— no. Direct from the retailer without touching a physical store— yes.
jay_kyburz
You can buy shoes directly from Nike here in Australia. Is that not the same in the states?
throwaway2037
> BTW, both Footlocker and Dick's have gross margins ~30% but Dick's has an operating margin around 12% while FL is 1-2%. Clearly FL is an inferior retailer.
ELI5: What is the difference between gross margin and operating margin? Is operating margin the same as profit margin?acrooks
Maybe easiest to explain from a software perspective.
So if you build a SaaS app, your company will incur a number of costs. You need to pay AWS for hosting, your support team, your sales team, your annual team retreat to Mexico, etc.
When you start measuring your profitability you then will separately measure the profitability of your product vs. your business.
The profitability of the product is your gross margin - essentially your revenue minus your cost of goods sold (COGS). Not all of your business expenses fall into here - only the costs that directly relate to supporting the product.
So… - Your annual team retreat won’t hit your gross margin: this cost isn’t essential to supporting the product - Your AWS costs will hit your gross margin (if you turned off AWS tomorrow, your product stops working) - Your Slack bill does not hit gross margin - Your product & engineering team normally doesn’t hit gross margin, but DevOps does (because DevOps is seen as essential to supporting the product while R&D is not)
Now in reality it does get a bit more messy. Businesses might allocate a % of engineering costs to GM to account for essential maintenance and bugfixes.
So the way to look at it is: what costs are essential to the continued delivery of the product and what are nice-to-have?
And then operating margin essentially considers all of the non capital costs. It’s a more comprehensive view of all the businesses revenue and costs.
For a smaller business it’s very normal for operating margin to be razor thin or even negative. Because just one or two engineers could cost more than your entire revenue.
But this entire concept is why software companies have historically been able to be unprofitable for so long. A business that’s losing a ton of money every month might only be losing that money because it’s investing very heavily in R&D. Or maybe it just moved into a new
As you scale the relative impact of a lot of those costs will go down significantly - e.g. your engineering team cost will stop being 300% of your revenue and will start being 20% (you don’t hire engineers linearly with growth).
So the theory is that if you can find a software that has: - a big market - great gross margin
Then with just some upfront cash investment you can provide the business enough runway to grow the revenue to the point where the impact of some of these expenses becomes very small. At a certain scale, a product with 50%+ gross margin will be producing so much cash that it can pay for the rest of your operational expenses without further investment.
ericmcer
I agree, isn't most selling online nowadays?
This also doesn't make sense because buying shoes from Nike.com costs roughly the same as Footlocker. Is Nike taking that 50% cut in this case? Article definitely hand waves away a ton of the complexity around tariffs and global trade.
My favorite line is: "Asian manufacturing in Asia produces US jobs. You go to Footlocker to buy a pair of $100 shoes because you can afford them. This creates jobs for the Footlocker employees".
It feels like people have completely flipped their views on offshoring manufacturing in the last 6 months. If you go back 10 years ago we were barraged with stories about Foxconn, corporations exploiting workers in developing nations, and scenes of abandoned manufacturing cities like Detroit. The popular view was that we needed to build our manufacturing base back up and that using developing nations to pump out cheap disposable goods was bad for everyone except giant corporations.
Now we are getting told that corporations offshoring all their labor to developing nations is good, and that the USA should not do manufacturing. This article even asserts that we will lose jobs if we produce things domestically.
I don't agree with the ham-fisted bullying approach Trump is using, but I do agree with the philosophical underpinning. Offshoring all our manufacturing is not a good long term strategy and will slowly erode the value of labor and our economy.
hnburnsy
The quoted article from the thread is from 2016, so yeah more selling is online and direct from the manufacturers.
hnburnsy
Nike Sales DTC versus Total
Fiscal Year | DTC Sales (in billion USD) | Total Sales (in billion USD) | DTC as % of Total Sales
----------- | -------------------------- | ---------------------------- | ----------------------
2020 | 12.4 | 37.4 | 33%
2021 | 16.4 | 44.5 | 37%
2022 | 18.7 | 46.7 | 40%
2023 | 20.3 | 47.6 | 43%
2024 | 21.5 | 48.2 | 45%
soared
I work in marketing for a large number of e-commerce brands across a variety of verticals, including shoes. Brand direct on Nikes website is bugged, but is absolutely dwarfed by sales in brick and mortar retail stores. Think about target/walmart/dicks/big5/etc and then think about just Nike.
hnburnsy
45% of Nike's sales in 2024 were DTC, see chart above.
TrapLord_Rhodo
The problem i have with this article is they use a "Hypothetical shoe" that retails for $100, but then directly quote a $220 shoe for the "American Made" side. Then use this as the entire justification for the price disperity. People absolutely pay $220 for "Chinese made" shoes too. It's all about branding...
Rockwell is price competitive with both kuka and fanuc. If you want to talk about 'Difference in manufacturing cost', why don't we start there?
pc86
Derek writes a lot of great fashion threads but he is a dyed-in-the-wool partisan and it comes through any time he touches on things remotely political. This doesn't mean he's wrong and it isn't even necessarily a bad thing, but it's important to keep that in mind and just remember that when he says something political he likely arrived at that political opinion first and is picking examples/hypotheticals to support it, and not vice versa.
raincom
I worked in the retail; it is the shittiest job I ever had. I was given an abnormal schedule: two days closing, one day opening, one mid shift (and I should work either Saturday or Sunday). The churn is really high: people leave even if they find a better yet shitty job. Which jobs do you want to create in US? Retail jobs or manufacturing jobs?
const_cast
Given the manufacturing is currently being done by people making much less than US minimum wage, I’d have to say retail!
People forget why manufacturing was moved out of the US. Manufacturing jobs sucked major ass. Then they sucked less ass, when unions started gaining power. Then the companies saw their employees had prosperity, said “fuck you”, and left.
We’ve crippled unions to such an absurd degree that the reality is that, if manufacturing came back, the quality of life for average Americans would go down significantly. It’s not 1955 - you’re out of your goddamn mind if you think a factory worker can maintain the quality of life now, let alone afford a suburban home on one income like in the past.
beeflet
Because of tarrifs, demand for local manufacturing increases and manufacturing wages will be greater than they are currently abroad due to newly constrained supply.
Okay, then we'll have unions then. I don't see what the issue is here. I have heard this reasoning several times, even in person, it seems to misunderstand the action of protectionism in the first place.
You can't have an industrial economy if workers don't have any leverage to demand sufficient wages or if unions have so much power that they bring the balance of labor negotiations to unprofitability.
I don't think manufacturing jobs suck ass. They probably aren't great for your physical health, but it is better for society spiritually in the long term to have the majority of society focused on producing something real rather than just having an endless network of fake jobs as a means of wealth distribution.
The factory worker of today can't afford anything because they are competing with third world wageslaves to outsource manufacturing to our geopolitical rivals.
watwut
> Okay, then we'll have unions then. I don't see what the issue is here.
America wont have unions nor consumer protections. For that matter, it wont investigate crypto scams either and will accept industrial pollutions to save factory owners money. Meaning, workforce will be less healthy due to impact on air they themselves are breathing.
There is no planned change to create protections for low level employees, but there are many changes allowing owners to do whatever. Once competition ranks up, they will be forced to pollute and mistreat workers or go out of business.
>it is better for society spiritually in the long term to have the majority of society focused on producing something real rather than just having an endless network of fake jobs as a means of wealth distribution.
OK, you want to sacrifice health of some for "spiritual benefit" of others. But those jobs will be as fake as healthier jobs those people have now.
silexia
Unions crippled themselves. Government employees unions destroyed the US government by getting the politicians in their pocket so much that no union member can be fired or held accountable in any way, and that led directly to Doge. Corporate unions were so abusive that companies were forced to move overseas, losing American jobs.
Each worker can negotiate easily on their own behalf or simply work elsewhere. Unions are unnecessary and always end up corrupt and wasteful.
const_cast
> no union member can be fired or held accountable in any way, and that led directly to Doge. Corporate unions were so abusive that companies were forced to move overseas, losing American jobs.
This is a complete re-writing of history.
Unions were not "abusive". Typical union negotiations pushed for safe(r) working environments and reasonable wages.
Companies moved overseas not because they were abused (Jesus Christ). They moved because there's lots of parts of the world where you have access to psuedo-slave labor.
I don't want to be a slave. My fellow Americans don't want to be slaves, either.
> Each worker can negotiate easily on their own behalf or simply work elsewhere.
This is delusional.
Let me put this bluntly. If you're not even willingly to acknowledge the obvious asymmetry in leverage during labor negotiations, then your opinion on unions is worthless. You're not an honest party, or maybe you have trouble coming to terms with reality. Unfortunately, that means your opinion is better suited for the loony bin, and not any serious discussions.
As an aside, there are lots of great arguments to make against unions. Do that instead.
zarzavat
Manufacturing jobs in Asia (e.g. making shoes) have much higher churn than retail jobs in Asia. That shit is hard work, but well paid by local standards.
Manufacturing also requires young people. You can't work in a factory in your 40s. The west is demographically ill-suited for those jobs.
themaninthedark
I agree with sibling post saying both but with a note.
(Most)Shitty job conditions can only exist if there is an abundance of labor; why can fast food joints get away with irregular scheduling? If the supply of labor is tight, jobs have to add bonuses to keep workers.
Why is health insurance tied to jobs in the US? Because during WWII, the government set limits on wages so companies started adding insurance and other items to attract workers.
During the GFC, what did companies do after cutting workers? Start cutting benefits, the workers couldn't walk since no one was hiring.
Look at pensions, they went away in the 80's. If you google why they went away, the answer is 401k became availible, however: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Early_1980s_recession
> Even the “father of the 401(k),” Ted Benna, tells The Journal with some regret that he “helped open the door for Wall Street to make even more money than they were already making.” >Other experts agree: On its blog, the Economic Policy Institute recently declared 401(k)s “a poor substitute” for the defined benefit pension plans many workers primarily relied on, which provide a fixed payout for employees at retirement, and which have now become increasingly rare. Nowadays, “just 13% of all private-sector workers have a traditional pension, compared with 38% in 1979,” reports The Journal.
https://www.cnbc.com/2017/01/04/a-brief-history-of-the-401k-...
https://time.com/archive/6686654/a-brief-history-of-the-401k...
imgabe
This is a false dichotomy. Creating manufacturing jobs doesn’t mean there are no retail jobs. We should have both. Different people have different preferences. Even the same person at different times in different situations. Why limit ourselves to one option?
chrisco255
Both!
jimt1234
Sorta related: Those Crocs/clogs shoes have been extremely popular for a few years now. ... I've always wondered how much it costs to make that type of shoes (Crocs/clogs) - it can't cost more than $1 to make most of them; they're just injection-molded, right?
josefresco
You can buy Croc knockoffs at the "Dollar Store" yet Crocs still exists. Why? Is it purely first-mover advantage/brand or is there an engineering edge?
adamweld
The material used by genuine Crocs seems to last much longer. My brother bought some knock-offs at the same time that I picked up a new pair. He wore through the soles in about two years while mine are still kicking after almost 8 years of near-daily use.
You can get the genuine ones for $18 to $35 on ebay depending on the color, so while I'm sure you can save some on clones it's not worth it for the durability and comfort.
mkipper
There are _some_ differences in quality, but I think they're pretty minor.
I recently visited the Philippines and a friend bought some knockoff Crocs at a market. The little rivet thing holding the strap to the shoe had the logo printed right on the exposed plastic, and after a few days, the logo was mostly scratched off. But my wife's Crocs that she bought a decade ago still look fine because there's some sort of sealant on top of the logo.
Is that worth an 800% markup? Probably not. But the knockoffs do cut some corners that the genuine articles don't.
thfuran
Do Crocs bought today match up to those old ones?
swah
I don't know about Crocs but brazilian flip-flops "Havaianas" never lost market share even though it feels so trivial to clone it.
The only two modes of failure of this sandal is "drying up" after a couple years and broken thong straps (yes, 3rd parties sell those as replacements..)
I guess they make sure they have cheap offerings and are always investing in design and marketing so no one can enter this market..
lolinder
I had a pair of knockoffs that were passable for limited purposes but certainly didn't pass muster as my primary shoe. I thought that the style just wasn't my thing. Then I got a pair of real Crocs and they very quickly became my go to for most purposes.
I don't know enough about shoes to explain why, but the difference in comfort level was huge.
apwell23
i have them. knockoff crocs suck. why ?
apwell23
knockoff crocs suck. i have them. why ?
subsubzero
A few things to unpack here:
Lets say a nike shoe costs $120 or so today(searching air jordans in google lists a huge number of shoes at that price point), in my mind this is quite cheap as I wanted a pair of Air Jordans in 1990 and they were the same price, $120 for kids shoes roughly 35 years ago. Adjusted for inflation thats roughly $303 USD in 2025 dollars. So basically through outsourcing manufacturing to China and supply chain efficiencies Nike has brought down their product price by roughly 1/3.
Another thing to think about is the insane amount of money offered to athletes in sponsorship deals, I believe Jordan was one of the first athletes to command big money from a company(they made a movie about it a few years ago). This cost paying hundreds of athletes millions a year is a huge cost on Nikes bottom line.
In addition to the sponsorships some athletes have profit sharing (Jordan for sure) so a percentage of sales go to said athlete. Throw in marketing and you have another huge cost.
Would I rather see manufacturing jobs come back to the US and Nike curtail sponsorship money and profit sharing, hell yes. This is easy money to get back and would bring tens of thousands of jobs back to this country, if people were snapping up air jordans for the equivalent of $300 a pair back in the 90's they will do the same in this day and age. And if don't want to cut back sponsorship money, just raise the shoe prices, things are really really cheap compared to what they cost 30 years ago and Nike would still make a hefty profit.
Fun fact - I always buy new balance shoes that are made in usa, they sell both outsourced and domestic production and would rather have my money go to a US worker. At the very least I hope to see other companies do this so I have a choice, most give no choice and force consumers to buy Chinese made products.
hattmall
I mean Nike didn't work to lower the price, the demand for Jordans is just different and most people buying Jordans today also bought them in the 90s and are comfortable at $120. If Nike could move them at $300 they would. Jordans remain popular but the reasoning is partially their price points, they don't at all have the power they did in the 90s when every kid wanted "to be like Mike".
Clubber
>The second thing we see is that Asian manufacturing in Asia produces US jobs. You go to Footlocker to buy a pair of $100 shoes because you can afford them. This creates jobs for the Footlocker employees, Nike designers, marketing teams, and other US people throughout this chain.
In all fairness, most of those jobs would still exist if manufacturing was brought onshore. The fact that they were manufactured in Asia makes no difference here, except for perhaps the longshoremen that was included in "other US people."
ravelantunes
The author’s point is that the lower cost of goods coming from Asia results in increased demand, which then generates more jobs in the post-manufacturing part of the chain.
xienze
That completely discounts the strategic value of self-sufficiency. I mean, why not outsource ALL manufacturing and agriculture if someone else can do it cheaper? Surely that wouldn't come back to bite us, right?
grayhatter
Explain the strategic value like I'm 5? I see people reference this idea all the time, but I'm unconvinced it's actually valuable enough to be worth it given all the other downsides. I don't actually believe it's a positive value proposition.
I see the argument for things of military significance. The common one is electronic components. But PCBs manufacturing is easy to spinup quickly. Which leave the critical components like IC where the ones we'd actually need are still exclusively overseas. The TSMC factory being built wont produce the newest generation chips.
Same for agriculture, if we're totally self sufficient, what happens when a blight takes out a staple crop or two? You can't just spin up food production or global food trade the way you can with manufacturing.
Meanwhile, having robust global trade is just a less lethal version of MAD, here being mutually assured economic destruction. It's much harder for other nations to turn on you when you both depend on each other for comfort, convience, or survival. Look at how the US is being seen by the international community. The reputation we had as a strong ally and worthwhile partner has been badly damaged. Why would other nations want to help us now? How are we stronger alone, instead of having their eager support?
There are two people, one grows all his own food, and makes all of the tools he needs. He doesn't need anybody. The other works with his neighbors, they share food, he kinda knows how to sharpen an ax, but he uses the ones made by the guy down the street, who's basically a professional blacksmith, even though he introduces himself as a gardener.
which one of those guys appears stronger? Who's more likely to survive something bad happening? who do you think is more likely to win in a fight? (yes their neighbors will come to help) which one would you rather be?
os2warpman
Domestic production that is perceived to benefit national sovereignty is protected.
See: farming, energy, and defense spending/subsidies.
There is no point in history where any nation, anywhere, has needed to be self-sufficient in the production of Nike Air Maxes.
That being said, my sneakers, New Balance 990v6s, were made in the US-- probably Maine. They're $200.
The shoes I typically wear for work, Red Wing Iron Rangers or Work Chukkas, were made in the US-- probably Minnesota. They're $350 and $290 respectively.
I don't know if increased volume will decrease the prices by much, they're only higher than premium imports by a little bit.
There is domestic production already here.
coffeebeqn
Are cheap sneakers a strategic asset now?
myrmidon
Self sufficiency is just not a credible argument here.
This is about consumer footwear, not agriculture (nor all of manufacturing).
The US (and most other nations that can afford to) is perfectly used to throwing ~$20 billion at the sector to keep local agriculture operational.
We did not do this for literally every industry in the past because we had (and have) neither the idle workforce to do this, nor does the local population want to do the work (even for slightly uncompetitive wages), nor do consumers want to pay for the difference.
My personal prediction is that people will realize this pretty soon with the consequences of the Trump tariffs manifesting and the whole thing will be rolled back and scaled down, with pretty much nothing to show for it.
alexb_
I know you're asking "why not outsource ALL manufacturing and agriculture if someone else can do it cheaper" in jest, or as a rhetorical device, but basically every single economist on earth will say "Yes, we should do that, that's a good thing"
p_j_w
We don't have the labor pool for self-sufficiency unless we want to drastically scale back how we live.
ElevenLathe
Yes, the goal is for everyone to be doing the thing they can do most cheaply and then trading with everyone else. Karl Marx and Ludwig von Mises would agree on this point. The idea that the Westphalian state should get in the middle of this is the aberation. The only reason national security is a consideration is because of the nations. I don't care if my shoes are made in Asia, though I suspect they wouldn't be if we paid Asian shoemakers an honest, globally-clearing wage.
basisword
Self-sufficiency is irrelevant to the discussion above. If prices go up, Americans can buy less, and the number of non-manufacturing jobs at these companies will go down.
Clubber
I see your point. I suppose a counterpoint is now shoes won't be so disposable and professions for cobblers and the like will be in higher demand.
teachrdan
> shoes won't be so disposable and professions for cobblers and the like will be in higher demand.
It doesn't necessarily follow that more expensive shoes will be easier to repair. It's more likely that shoes will simultaneously become more expensive for the consumer AND lower quality and therefore even less amenable to repair.
meepmorp
Unless they dramatically change the design and manufacturing of those shoes, they won't be less disposable - just more expensive.
airhangerf15
We buy and waste a lot of stuff. Fast fashion is pretty insane. Look in the closets of your friends who are constantly clothes shopping and it's a ton of shit that never gets worn and eventually "donated" (5% makes it to thrift store shelves, but most of it gets burned or sent to Africa .. and then burned).
Reversing the transmission of western consumerism is not an easy change. Few people are willing to pay an extra $50 for a more durable good that lasts. Long term thinking isn't easy for most, and many can't even afford to think that way.
But the tariffs are really a tax, a federal sales tax on the consumer. Biden tried to put in "unrealized gains tax" (which is really Federal property tax). So both presidents are trying to use executive power and double speak to get their people to support new taxes that are ultimately horrible for every American.
Trump Derangement Syndrome runs both directions.
guhidalg
Is that better? We need at least one cobbler sure, but if shoes are so scarce that we need to repair them like some communist country, are we better off?
doctorpangloss
The reason you’re buying Nike and not GLRMNTXH brand knockoffs manufactured in the same factory and half the cost is because of stuff the US employees are doing.
jasonlotito
> In all fairness, most of those jobs would still exist if manufacturing was brought onshore.
Yes, if you waved a magic wand.
But considering bringing manufacturing onshore to replace Asian manufacturing will take at best years if not decades, no, those jobs will not still exist.
4ndrewl
Incorrect. The price of manufacturing, because of the cost of living differences, would result in a far more expensive product.
Free-trade brings into being products that previously would not have existed (Nike trainers for the masses).
arbitrary_name
If those shoes cost $200 because of higher labor costs, then a lot less people are buying them. They will buy worse imports at $180. The consumer loses.
onlyrealcuzzo
The point is - there isn't a market for $400 crappy basketball shoes.
There is a market for $120 ones...
https://threadreaderapp.com/thread/1909741170953273353.html