Station of despair: What to do if you get stuck at end of Tokyo Chuo Rapid Line
149 comments
·February 5, 2025idlewords
If you haven't been to Japan, it's worth lingering over these pictures and noticing a few things:
- The complete absence of vandalism
- How generally clean everything is
- Accessibility strip for blind people (bumpy yellow stripe in train stations and sidewalks)
- Nothing is broken or out of service
- How safe and welcoming the public transit system feels.
Japan is worth the journey if you ever want to step into a high-trust other dimension.
rtpg
Japan is definitely high trust and has a lot of advantages downstream of that. Though I think lots of that list is more of a "vibrant Japanese city" vibe (go up to some dying onsen town and you'll see plenty of broken shit and TVs dropped on the side of the road).
Cleanliness is... mostly downstream of storefronts and the like picking shit up _all the time_. There are pockets of land that don't end up people's direct responsibility and end up getting very dirty very quickly. Little micro-pockets of trash that pile up (very quickly!). But lots of places you tend to have someone going around and just picking something up.
For like a year there was a guy consistently eating his cup noodles or lunch box near my building, and he would just drop it near the bike parking. But we had somebody come by the building twice a week to deal with trash and the like and he was picking it up (I'd throw it into a garbage bag if I saw it and had one in my hand). Still though, like if I'd go on a midnight walk I'd see it.
Turns out that the way super crowded places can be clean is by cleaning constantly (see also restrooms, which need to be constantly cleaned). "Nothing is broken" also definitely feels downstream of people fixing stuff promptly. Low latency when trying to deal with issues might be key.
And an aside for the public transit... while the transit feels clean, ask most any woman living in Tokyo how they feel about riding public transit. Many might still grade it above other ones but I have heard many nasty experiences that white guys just don't get exposed to at all. Groping, verbal harassment, the works.
EDIT: I mention lots of this to get to a bigger point: good things are possible! There is no magic entirely localized in the Japanese Isles.
conception
This is definitely part of government job programs. Paying people to keep your cities clean has a lot of advantages.
rtpg
Near my building it was the building manager. Most shops it's just a shop member that cleans up the stuff by the shop. At the McDonalds there's a staff member _constantly_ roving around cleaning tables up and picking up trash people leave (and they tend to not be able to keep up with the patronage trash generation...)
It's just in the job description for most things honestly.
NalNezumi
It's definitely a eye-opener (or sometime, conspiracy-inducing since from some western POV certain behavior simply can't be comprehended) to check the high trust in practice.
I once ended up stranded in Shibuya (night life/young adult district) waiting for the morning train, and decided to just sit there sip some water to sober up. Now that part of town the average age can't be above 25, and on a Friday night it doesn't really look so different from any party district in any western city; filled with empty can/bottles, garbage and puke. But around sunrise, even here in the dead-center of Japans youth culture, an old guy just came down, started to pick up trash and even cleaning some puke. He didn't work there, just lived there. about 2h later when store opened up they did another cleaning (garbage was gone at this point so mostly with water).
It's quite common for people to not just clean their garden/house, but also the street in front of their house. It probably stems from the sense of "common ownership of public place" that I think comes from the fact that in Japanese schools, its up to the students to clean their classroom. Since you also eat lunch in your classroom (again, served by the student that go and pick it up and distribute it among classmates), you kinda learn the practice from an early age.
When I tell this to my north-european friends they laugh saying there would be parental riot if they did that here. At the same time, a highschool said they had to yearly replace tables because of vandalization by the students and this amount can rack up to pretty sizeable cost, when you include vandalization of lockers, books, etc.
mc32
You know how there are pictures of certain immigrants to NYC and other places in the early part of the XX century and they would show those people sweeping their stoops and sidewalks and generally keeping their neighborhoods tidy?
Well, in Japan, you still see that. Shop owners will go around their shop with a duster cleaning away any dust or cobwebs that might have sprung overnight. Awnings, signs, etc.
Spooky23
That was a political machine thing. In the days before social security, destitute old people with connections to the local ward leader would be handed a broom and a modest wage.
In my small city (~120k people at the time) they had a few thousand people in the payroll doing stuff like this.
jarsin
When I play Ryu Ga Gotoku Studio games like "Lost Judgement" or "Like A Dragon" I always find myself wondering if groping is a big deal over there.
em-bee
the problem is that complaining and making a fuss about things that bother you is frowned upon. especially for women. so they suffer in silence. and the games probably are mostly made by men, who of course don't think it is as much of a big deal. not much different from what it used to be in the west. if only samurai chivalry was more prevalent. but unfortunately keeping appearance (and not embarrassing others) is more important.
kopirgan
Japanese are obsessed with being clean. Like wiping the pen with tissue paper before handing it to you. On more than one occasion I have had a stranger passenger on long distance train clearing my cup of coffee as she goes to throw hers in the trash. May be she is signalling you can't trust these foreigners to clean up before they leave!
usefulcat
Having never been to Japan, I don’t dispute anything you say, and as an American I definitely agree those things sound great.
However I do think it’s fair to point out the existence of women-only train cars in Japan, which I believe exist at least in part due to groping. Seems like YMMV depending on gender.
iszomer
One thing that occurred to me recently is that Japanese book stores will wrap your books in paper to protect one's privacy while reading on mass transit. There are still some bookstores in Taiwan that still preserve this tradition as well.
goosejuice
There's quite a lot of interviews with western women on this subject on YouTube. Can't remember the channel.
I felt so incredibly safe in Japan and I don't remember even seeing a cop. As an American, that felt crazy to me for how large those cities are. I had some expectation of that but it still surprised me, particularly in the touristy nightlife districts with the street drinking.
Obviously seems like there might be some downsides to the culture that leads to this.
jrockway
I mean, groping on the subway is a problem in New York City too. We just close our eyes and plug our ears while singing "hire more cops". A women-only car would be most welcome.
deadbabe
In New York people push other people onto the tracks for fun and we do little about it.
michpoch
Looks pretty similar to what I'd expect to a regular European town.
What are you comparing it to that you see such a drastic difference?
lukan
Having travelled quite a bit in europe, I disagree. There are european towns with train stations that look similar clean. But not at all everywhere.
Eastern europe in general less. Norther europe more.
Western and southern europe is mixed. Graffiti I have seen quite a bit, but broken glass or other types of vandalism are sadly common, too.
Spooky23
I’ve been on a few business and pleasure trips to France, Italy and Spain was struck by the volume of graffiti.
Way more than in NYC or Boston today, it reminded me of NYC when I was a kid in the 80s.
sho_hn
Don't bother :) There are other examples, but the US/HN audience is particularly fascinated with Japan in a "if you have to pick one" kind of way. Perhaps also because it's an old adversary.
It's much better than 0 outside benchmarking, so I've learned to just let these threads roll on.
renewiltord
Things are actually open. In Switzerland everything closes. Japan is notable because there’ll be people everywhere and things will still be clean. Compare football games as example.
michpoch
> In Switzerland everything closes
Sure, because there are worker rights and we do not keep people working at night unless there's a reason.
> Japan is notable because there’ll be people everywhere and things will still be clean
What do you mean people will be everywhere? There are people as well in regular European towns and it's clean as well.
ktallett
Hmmm the few people that clean up at Japanese football games don't actually represent everyone. Many leave drinks containers behind or bento boxes that they brought with them, and often you are given bags of goodies (not actually that exciting, I got a branded folder of the team, and a salad dressing one time) which end up being 'forgotten'. Whilst yes some fans do keep it very tidy, as with many things in Japan, there is an idolised view that isn't based on reality.
astrange
> - Accessibility strip for blind people (bumpy yellow stripe in train stations and sidewalks)
Have you tried to find an elevator? There's one in every station, but they don't tell you where it is.
Also, they like making sidewalks out of the slipperiest substances you can find. It's a problem when it rains and can't be easy for anyone who walks unsteadily.
presentation
I have not had any such problems living here for 7 years… elevators always have signs all over the station telling you exactly where to go to get to them, with standardized coloring and symbols, and text saying what it’s about in Japanese and English. They tell you even while you’re on the train which car the elevator will be in front of.
I would chalk up your experience to being generally overwhelmed and not used to it, mixed in with being illiterate in the local language (despite there being English and symbols to assist further).
johngossman
I notice that too, just carrying luggage around. Same with pedestrian overpasses some places. Overall, I’d say Japan is noticeably less accessible than the US or western Europe.
thatguy0900
The US Americans with disabilities act really does a lot of work
goosejuice
It's hard to find anything in the large stations. Shinjuku station is mad. It's like a confluence of 12 rivers.
the_svd_doctor
I went to Japan (first time) a few months ago, and I was blown away by almost everything (including what you mention). It's just so different from the US in almost every way, but so nice overall (people, cities, transit). I loved it and want to go back already.
testfoobar
What is it that makes this possible in Japan? And why doesn't it happen in the US?
rtpg
There's a sign in Otsuka (northern Tokyo suburb) like "Otsuka has half the crime rate of 10 years ago!" Things are the way they are, up until the moment that they change.
Things can change if people will it into existence. My 2-bit belief is basically simplified "broken window theory", where stuff being broken leads to more stuff being broken, trash leads to more trash... so dealing with cleaning stuff up quickly is good.
Generating an environment where people have some pride in what's around them and are also benefiting from the thing themselves, on top of the thing not being busted probably helps a lot.
There's a lot of anti-littering campaigns and the like. I feel like the gov'ts as a whole are pretty responsive to new kinds of crime and try to build a public consciousness against it as soon as they realize what's up.
Plenty of hooliganism in Japan all over, and plenty of raging, but at the end of the day if there's a nice bench that someone is allowed to sit on in a chill way, people probably tend to not take their rage out on it.
Maybe everyone in Tokyo is just ground down from having to work all the time and is just subservient to authority. Who knows!
sangnoir
Strong vs weak sense of obligation to the collective (the people around you).
rawgabbit
It is part of Japanese culture. Even in elementary school the children clean their own classrooms.
thinkyfish
Lingering colonial attitudes. America, for the longest time was the "exploited space" for Europe and much like India, carries this beaten in attitude that "this is not the nice place". You can find nice places like this but you have to go to the richest enclaves to find it. Japan is its own "nice place".
cruano
American individualism
astrange
Japanese are more individualist than Americans. They just don't apply this to graffiti.
They do sometimes litter, throw up in the sidewalk after drinking, and don't wash their hands after using the train station bathrooms.
I mean, Tokyo isn't even that clean. I was just there and saw a rat on the sidewalk every night. They're like NYC and just leave commercial trash bags on the sidewalk instead of using trash bins. (Also frequently saw aggressive "no dumping" signs on the pile of trash bags. Not very high trust!)
SuperNinKenDo
I don't believe Individualism is the issue, unless you mean by that a specifically American variety if Individualism. Individualism also comes with the idea of individual responsibility, and many relatively individualistic countries are close to, or in certain ways exceed, Japan (e.g., in Japan people tend to leave trash in public spaces to a degree that would be inconceivable in many Western countries).
kennysoona
Way more of a hive mind mentality and indoctrination. Expression individualism and going your own way is actively discouraged.
astrange
They're actually very good at individual expression.
https://www.amazon.com/Pure-Invention-Japans-Culture-Conquer...
presentation
You state that very confidently despite having no idea what you’re talking about.
tokioyoyo
Why would I make something worse if I’m ever going to see, touch, feel, think about?
walrus01
At the risk of stereotyping an entire nationality, Japanese culture puts a high degree of emphasis on conformity, obeying rules, obeying social hierarchies and keeping things in a generally orderly fashion.
For instance, many Japanese primary public schools have no janitor. This is normal. The children scrub the floors, bathrooms and do all the other cleaning tasks in a defined schedule.
some random reference examples: https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=japanese+...
astrange
Of course they have janitors. The students sweep the classroom, but they aren't expected to fix a blocked toilet or refill the soap.
mitthrowaway2
Not sure why you are downvoted. Japanese schools do a good job of promoting prosocial behaviour.
A relatively low income inequality may also be a big factor. Also, much less societal tolerance for drugs?
Larrikin
If this is the station drunks end up at after passing out, then there is a high probability of seeing throw up or a passed out person on the weekends.
jrockway
Most interesting to me is that the Chuo Line appears to have finally gotten its new rolling stock with Green Cars! I went to high school in Tokyo and was slummin' it in the 201 series: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/201_series#/media/File:JR_EAST...
tjpnz
The green cars are double deckered and you can ride them for free until April!
jounker
The freakiest thing to me is the Lawsons. This was a tiny little convenience store chain that existed in a few counties near Cleveland, OH. It went out of business around 1980, but through some baffling chain of events managed to migrate to Japan where they seem to be only slightly less common than 7/11s.
Liftyee
I wonder which other cities have examples of this phenomenon. Presumably any large one with a mass transit system - having lived in London (England) I can imagine some undesirable Tube termini to wake up at, but most terminus stops are still well within the suburbs. That is, unless you end up on longer distance commuter rail lines, where you might just wake up in Portsmouth. Those longer distance trains might be more akin to the line discussed in the article.
makeitdouble
To note, ending within the suburbs doesn't help that much if everything is closed and your choice is wandering the streets, spending 5h at the only opened bar, forking for an hotel or paying a cab.
That said, France is the same regarding commuting trains, oversleeping in Paris's RER will lead you to pleasing but pretty far away towns.
Did it once, and spent about 5h visiting the sleeping town by foot to mark the occasion. Did it again in the midst of winter, and the staff allowed me and the two other blokes to stay for the night in the next departing train with the heating on.
Spain had trains going well into the mountains as well. I can't imagine how it goes for Russia, China and India.
mhandley
Six of the London tube lines have all night service on Friday and Saturday nights, so if you fall asleep on these, you won't be stuck.
https://tfl.gov.uk/campaign/tube-improvements/what-we-are-do...
My route home is via commuter rail so I don't have that luxury. I wouldn't possible know what it is like to wake up after a few beers and find myself on the last train of the night, four stations past my stop, but rumour has it that the night bus network is pretty good at getting me^H^Hpeople home, even if the wait can be cold, so long as you've not actually left London. Or Uber.
https://sucs.org/~cmckenna/maps/busspider/2012-14/west-londo...
But if you don't wake up til the end of the line, it's probably pretty much like in Japan, except less clean.
simmo9000
Uxbridge, High Barnet, Edgware, all painful for a wake-up nudge from a rail worker at 1am.
Cockfosters was proper despair, and Mordor (or Morden) well... don't.
What took the cake though was flying back and arriving at Stansted after midnight and waiting for the 5am escape back home in the depths of winter.
London offered many memorable evenings for those silly enough to party in the city a while back.
Not drinking so much is probably a way to avoid the despair, but where is the fun in that?
aqueueaqueue
I'm a vomiteer rather than a sleeper so I never have this problem. But I know people who slept and ended up in Cambridge.
leoc
Crewe is a station of despair for the British rail network despite not being a last stop, instead in fact because it's something like the heart of the network. If you try to travel far enough across the island (especially from the north, I think) and you depart lateish or don't have the right tickets or enounter delays, the chances are excellent that you will be spending several hours overnight in Crewe. You can forget about finding a convenient and affordable bed, so instead you'll be slumped on a chair in the little waiting room, which at least is lit and heated, and feels like it's the secret heart of Britain. Or at least that's how it all still was the last time I was there, but I doubt anything much has changed since.
aqueueaqueue
I slept on a train from London once and ended up in Edinburgh. But that was planned :)
Also not a despair place. But the point is you can go far. Same must be true in Japan.
mzhaase
Berlin has this and it's Schöneweide. There is a light rail ring with two lines going in opposite directions... and one line going straight into the middle of nowhere. If you don't pay attention it's easy to end up there by accident.
flyinghamster
Chicago, too, particularly on Metra (the commuter rail network). The longest line is the UP Northwest line, about 63 mi/102 km to the far rural town of Harvard, Illinois.
Or, if you're heading to Indiana, the NICTD South Shore Line can take you all the way from Chicago to South Bend.
null
mikeInAlaska
Ended up on Elmendorf Air Force Base (at the hospital) this way once as a little kid in the early 1980s. The bus actually went from Anchorage onto the air force base and then called it quits. That was definitely my station of despair. "Mom... drive onto the military base and get me."
jeffchien
If you get stuck there between ~10PM (the last train back to Hachioji that could connect to Shinjuku) and 11PM (or midnight if you can spare the change for the limited express), you can also consider going west to Yamanashi and Kofu. Let's just say that I was almost in this exact scenario from a long day in Kawaguchiko, but I ended up making it back to central Tokyo.
astrange
My favorite thing about soranews is the English writers always call the Japanese writers "us" or "our reporter", but you never see any of them when they post pictures of the office. I assume they're being kept in a dungeon somewhere.
noelwelsh
Good read as I catch a train home close to midnight. I've often wondered what I would do if I fell asleep on the train and missed my stop. Peterborough isn't the most exciting town during the day; being there after midnight would rather unfortuanate. Thankfully it hasn't happened yet!
autoexec
I always wondered why they didn't just keep the trains running, even if only for a handful of runs overnight. Seems worth it to keep drunk salarymen from wandering around the streets until morning only to have to go back to work.
Spooky23
[delayed]
rtpg
My understanding is they do a _lot_ of maintenance at night.
I have to imagine it might not be worth it though. The whole "city that never sleeps" vibe is relatively localized to a couple neighborhoods and having all lines run through the night would be a bit of an extravagance (all that for, what, the 5 hours they're not running?). Train drivers aren't cheap! And we invented technology for getting small groups of people home already, it's called taxis.
Post COVID I think there's been a huge push to just chill out even with the 24 hour stuff. Lots of places close earlier than they used to, and some places that used to be 24 hours just go until midnight now.
There was a bus that would go between a couple of the nightclub spots throughout the night, never took it though. Maybe there would be a decent business in running "commuter"-y buses throughout the night between certain areas, at least to try and get closer home.
Liftyee
Maintenance, perhaps? For the London Underground at least, the power is switched off after the trains stop running (4th rail) so workers can safely go onto the tracks.
Also, it would almost definitely run at a loss (excluding externalities)... same reason why many Chinese cities' subsidised metros close quite early. Agreed that it's probably beneficial in the big picture but maybe hard to justify to superiors?
singleshot_
May I ask what the third rail is for in your neck of the woods?
jffry
It seems the London Underground uses a four-rail system http://www.trainweb.org/tubeprune/tractioncurr.htm
decimalenough
I've heard the theory floated that this is at least in part due to furious lobbying against it by taxi companies, who currently have a de facto monopoly on transport at night.
More likely it's just for train maintenance, and indeed, 24-hour train operation is vanishingly rare, with NYC and Chicago the only well-known major cities with it. Tokyo does stand out by not even having night buses though. (It used to have a skeletal network, but even that was killed off by COVID.)
nicoburns
> More likely it's just for train maintenance, and indeed, 24-hour train operation is vanishingly rare, with NYC and Chicago the only well-known major cities with it.
Yes, and at least NYC is notorious for how poorly it's train network is maintained, which I suspect is no coincidence.
jdietrich
As others have suggested, running trains overnight hugely complicates routine maintenance. When people are working on the line, any train movements will hugely increase the risk profile.
The more sensible option is generally night buses, which are considerably less expensive. The London Underground runs a limited night service on some lines on Friday and Saturday nights, but London has a fairly extensive night bus service.
grayfaced
They could get rid of this phenomena if they had the train schedule end in a lively area. Meaning the last train arriving an endpoint is followed by a single last train that only goes halfway. I imagine that extra half-route is opposite that most passengers are traveling though.
adrianmonk
Like others said, it's probably maintenance. But presumably they could run late night bus service along essentially the same routes as the trains.
Trains are good at bypassing traffic and carrying large numbers of people, but you don't need to worry about those things in the middle of the night, so a bus should work fine as substitute.
Symbiote
Many European cities do run buses at night, often replacing rail services. The largest ones run the metro/trains, sometimes only on Friday and Saturday night.
It's not only useful for people leaving a party, but workers on early or late shifts like cleaning out working in restaurants.
neilv
There's more despair when you miss the last train/bus in a US city, in an unfamiliar area, you don't have a phone, nothing is open, and the only other people you've seen seem to be deciding whether to mug you.
(I've done this more than once, accidentally.)
adregan
I had a friend who used to fall asleep regularly on the first train after a night out and would wake up in the farthest reaches of the opposite direction of his home.
Oh man this make me nostalgic! My mothers sides family were from an area close/along the Chuo rapid line, west Tokyo probably exactly between Otsuki & Shinjuku.
Otsuki is actually not the most common final destination along Chuo Rapid Line, but Takao is. Takao is close to a popular hiking spot Takao mountain so there's definitely more stuff there compared to Otsuki.
Probably the WORST "getting stuck at Chuo Rapid Line" is Actually mistakenly taking Chuo Line that transfer to Ome Line that could sometime go all the way to Okutama. There's literally nothing there, and you're deep in the mountain. There's so little light pollution there, that my sisters friend that live there told me that at night you can actually see the light pollution from Tokyo inner city from the east, and locals call it 煩悩の光 (The light of lust/carnal desires).